Eyeballing the hinge side, reveal is consistent. Top latch side is against the weather stripping. Bottom latch side is 1/2" off. I've tried several different types of weather stripping including replacing the existing, nothing lasted. I can push on the face of the door at the gap and push it tight. So either rail/stile is loose or I am pushing warp out. I don't think the hinges are giving, there is no room for them to give.
Straightening A Door
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
Pardon me asking the obvious, but have you checked to make sure that the hinge screws are all in tight, or that there is not some other obstruction or warping of the hinge side door frame? .. maybe binding against the door stop on the hinge side?? if not the solution may be as easy as adding a tapered shim behind the hinge ( saw Tom Silva do that on Ask TOH once). Or possibly a little delicate chisel work cleaning up the hinge mortice.Comment
-
Pardon me asking the obvious, but have you checked to make sure that the hinge screws are all in tight, or that there is not some other obstruction or warping of the hinge side door frame? .. maybe binding against the door stop on the hinge side?? if not the solution may be as easy as adding a tapered shim behind the hinge ( saw Tom Silva do that on Ask TOH once). Or possibly a little delicate chisel work cleaning up the hinge mortice.
These would have been some of the things to check. Some problems are caught before the door is hung, some after. Any warp in the door can be detected before hanging. Being able to push out the warp while hung can reveal whether there is joint failure, or hinge relief, if you can detect where the movement is coming from.
Eyeballing the gap will only tell you if the door is centered in the opening. Gap between the door and the stop may indicate an improper alignment of the hinge mortises not allowing the door to be installed to mate to the opening and seat on the stop evenly. Or, one or more of the screws may be too proud.
If the door was salvage, was it a 'once hung' door? Or, was it a pre-hung, with its own jamb? Or, a door never mortised. The actual details were never stated, other than it was 'salvage'. If a pre-hung, were the mortises already there. If not a once-hung with or without a jamb, which hinges were used? Were they ones with the door, ones from a previous installation or brand new.
If the door is hung and the mortises cut allowing the face of the hinge to be just so slightly proud of the jamb and door edge, there will likely never be any binding, and the gap will be consistent with the knuckle/leaf allowance dimension. Once hung some differential in the alignment of the mortises and hinge installation may be detected how the door swings, and reacts when held and let go in several opening/closing positions.
So, IMO, there's more to just being able to push out a warp. I still conclude that if the condition is a warp, there's not a lot that can be done to flatten it. As suggested, removing the stop and reinstalling the stop to fit the closing gap is the easiest fix.
.Comment
-
I will look into moving the stop though I am loathe to do that. It is also possible one of the rail/stile joints is loose.David
The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.Comment
-
Comment
Footer Ad
Collapse

Comment