Note: This was also posted on Woodnet.
In a previous post, I showed off my porch addition:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=46243
Part of that construction included a new screen door. The new door was built to match an
existing one. If you can believe it, the door only took one weekend to build--not including
painting. It was made really easy with my jig below.
I bought pre-primed 5/4 wood from HD. I was very happy with it. Very flat and true
and not too badly priced. It came in super long lengths so I had very little waste. The whole
door frame (except the bottom grid) is loose mortise and tenon. First I cut all the parts to size.
I made a router mortising jig more than 4 years ago--before I ever saw the Mortise Pal.
This is the bottom view. The jig allows for a 5/8" collar to ride in a slot. It will cut a max 1/2"
wide mortise. A 5/8" piece of wood is put in the slot and then the tall fence is adjusted in or
out to determine where the mortise will be cut. Because I was using thicker wood than my
normal 3/4, I used the flat face of a square and my table saw wrench to offset the fence to the
right spot.
This is a top view of the jig. The parts labeled "A" have slots routed in the them. They slide
in and out to adjust the mortise length. Parts A are held in place by tightening 2 bed bolts
labeled "A" in red. The fence is held securely by tightening the 2 bolts
labeled "B". Believe it or not, when I built this thing, I didn't put a lot of thought into it. I am
not a WWing savant. Just lucky in this case. The jig is clamped to the piece in my bench vise.
Ready to route. During routing, I keep my DC hose tucked under my arm. After routing a pass,
I lift the bit up, move the router out of the way, and suck out the chips. Lather, rinse, repeat
until you get to the desired depth. Sorry, but I have no mortise pics. They come out perfect,
though.
The trick with this jig is to always reference the fence from one face of the work--
there's no guarantee the fence is perfectly centered. No problem. Just make pencil marks.
I made loose tenons from some 1/2" thick scrap. I rounded them over with a block plane and
tweaked each one to fit.
The bottom grid was made with by half lapping 2 pieces.
Here's the dry fit. Dang if this wasn't one of my most square glue ups. Gotta' love that jig!
I decided to route grooves and affix the screen with splines. No problem for my little Grizzly
trim router and guide. Woops. I shouldn't have routed through that section. That's what
wood filler is for! Too bad I already painted the door.
Now the poly screen is set in place. The screens get nice and tight.
I covered up the spline with some homemade trim tacked in place.
Here's the finished door in its final resting place. I had to demo the old screen that was in the
place of this door and frame it out for this door.
Paul
In a previous post, I showed off my porch addition:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=46243
Part of that construction included a new screen door. The new door was built to match an
existing one. If you can believe it, the door only took one weekend to build--not including
painting. It was made really easy with my jig below.
I bought pre-primed 5/4 wood from HD. I was very happy with it. Very flat and true
and not too badly priced. It came in super long lengths so I had very little waste. The whole
door frame (except the bottom grid) is loose mortise and tenon. First I cut all the parts to size.
I made a router mortising jig more than 4 years ago--before I ever saw the Mortise Pal.
This is the bottom view. The jig allows for a 5/8" collar to ride in a slot. It will cut a max 1/2"
wide mortise. A 5/8" piece of wood is put in the slot and then the tall fence is adjusted in or
out to determine where the mortise will be cut. Because I was using thicker wood than my
normal 3/4, I used the flat face of a square and my table saw wrench to offset the fence to the
right spot.
This is a top view of the jig. The parts labeled "A" have slots routed in the them. They slide
in and out to adjust the mortise length. Parts A are held in place by tightening 2 bed bolts
labeled "A" in red. The fence is held securely by tightening the 2 bolts
labeled "B". Believe it or not, when I built this thing, I didn't put a lot of thought into it. I am
not a WWing savant. Just lucky in this case. The jig is clamped to the piece in my bench vise.
Ready to route. During routing, I keep my DC hose tucked under my arm. After routing a pass,
I lift the bit up, move the router out of the way, and suck out the chips. Lather, rinse, repeat
until you get to the desired depth. Sorry, but I have no mortise pics. They come out perfect,
though.
The trick with this jig is to always reference the fence from one face of the work--there's no guarantee the fence is perfectly centered. No problem. Just make pencil marks.
I made loose tenons from some 1/2" thick scrap. I rounded them over with a block plane and
tweaked each one to fit.
The bottom grid was made with by half lapping 2 pieces.
Here's the dry fit. Dang if this wasn't one of my most square glue ups. Gotta' love that jig!
I decided to route grooves and affix the screen with splines. No problem for my little Grizzly
trim router and guide. Woops. I shouldn't have routed through that section. That's what
wood filler is for! Too bad I already painted the door.
Now the poly screen is set in place. The screens get nice and tight.
I covered up the spline with some homemade trim tacked in place.
Here's the finished door in its final resting place. I had to demo the old screen that was in the
place of this door and frame it out for this door.
Paul
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