Caulking

[dlminehart]

I have some bathroom caulking to do, where tub meets wall, shower stall frame meets wall and tub, etc. I'm looking for some pointers in doing a good job of it . . . for a change!

Here's how I've been doing it:

put masking tape down at what I want to be the outer edges of the caulk line, apply a bead of caulk, smooth the bead using one of a few different methods, and remove the tape.

My findings:

If my smoothing results in the bead exactly filling the gap left by the tape, it's fine. The smoothed bead is almost never shy of filling the gap, and is scarcely noticeable if it does happen. More often, the smoothed bead overlaps the tape a bit. And the thicker the overlap at the edge of the tape, the more noticeable the crisp ridge is when the tape is removed. I then end up having to choose between a visible ridge at the edge, or the irregularity in bead width that results from going over that edge with my finger without the tape in place.

Anyone have suggestions?

Another situation is 3-way intersections. E.g., caulking the tile where it meets the side and back of the tub, but also goes up the corner of the walls where tile meets tile.

Do you do one set of intersections one day and the remaining one later when the first has dried? Or try to do them both in one session . . . and, if so, how to arrive at a smooth caulk intersection? I keep finding that smoothing one intersection leaves a ridge at the edge of the other.

[iceman61]

I always just use my finger to run down the caulked joint. The trouble comes when you run too much of a bead & it starts to carry over while I'm running my finger over the caulk. I've found that the first step in getting a good bead is to not use a utility knife to "wack" off the end of the tube lick some of my guys try to do on the job. This ticks me off to no end because they usually end up with caulk everywhere.

I open the end of the tube nozzle with a small drill bit, one equivalent to the size of the needle that you use on the end of the caulk gun to puncture the tube. This will help you to not lay down such a huge bead of caulk. Also have a wet rag handy to wipe excess off of your finger.

A useful tip I've found that help me at the end if I have caulk left over in the tube is to take a hot glue gun & put a drop of hot glue on the tip to reseal up the tube. I used to use a finish nail but they always seem to rust in the tube & I end up sqeezing alot of caulk out of the tube to get the discolored caulk out.

[dlminehart]

Iceman, I like the suggestion about the hot glue, and will try it next time. I've been just putting masking or duct tape, and this is hit or miss.

I've found the smaller gaps are easier to do a clean job on, and your drill suggestion would work well. My recent tub-to-wall job involved a gap that ranged from 3/16 to 7/16. Took a fair amount of caulk, and a fairly large hole in the caulk tip. Easy, with this amount of caulk in play, to mess up the joint.

[herb fellows]

I believe you're supposed to fill the tub half way before you begin, and leave it till the caulk is dry, to acclimate the caulk to the possible stress factors later on. Supposed to last longer.

[gsmittle]

I believe you're supposed to fill the tub half way before you begin, and leave it till the caulk is dry, to acclimate the caulk to the possible stress factors later on. Supposed to last longer.

Don't your pants get all wet when you step in the tub to reach the back?

g.

[cabinetman]

I don't use any siliconized caulk. Some caulking is a mess to use and clean up. I only use Polyseamseal Adhesive Caulk.

I just cut an angle on the end of the tip with a utility knife, and lay a smooth bead, and do the one finger drag. For a three way intersection, a damp rag will help, or the corner of a putty knife can even it out. A Bondo spreader works good too, it's easy to clean, and can be trimmed for different sizes.
.

[eccentrictinkerer]

I do a lot of caulking in my handyman business. I've always used masking tape for a crisp edge but have had trouble getting the edge smooth.

I tried the 'finger dipped in soapy water' trick and had some success, but still not perfect.

On a recent job I watched a young guy get a perfect job when he installed a new Corian top on a vanity that I'd built for a customer. He laid a narrow bead of caulk. He then sprayed a solution on the bead and wiped it with his finger. He sprayed again and smoothed the bead out.

I asked him what was in the spray bottle and he said it was a secret recipe and he wasn't allowed to reveal it!

I kept after him and bribed him with a bag of fresh cookies my wife had just baked. He broke down. The solution was half water and half denatured alcohol.

I now carry a small bottle in my tool bag at all times. It allows me to smooth every caulk line perfectly. I also learned that old dogs can learn new tricks from the young pups!

[Garasaki]

That's a good, and timely for me, trick.

On bigger gaps, make sure to install a backer rod. You don't really want to fill a 1/2" gap, that's at least a 1/2" deep, with nothing but caulk.

[pecker]

I do what you do. But if you just gotta buy another tool, this thing gets good reviews.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/blog...s/4296174.html

[docrowan]

Where do you buy backer rod at? I've heard of it and seen it on DIY shows, but I've never seen it for sale at HD or Lowe's.

[TheChief]

I was especially impressed with one site's graphic for their version, the Xpress Seal Pro...



I've been wondering how best to seal my thigh areas....

[conwaygolfer]

Caulking

I use the wet finger method to smooth out the initial bead. Keep a paper towel near to wipe the excess onto even before you get to the end of the run of caulk. Then take a wet sponge (after you wring it out) and gently wipe this over the entire length. All the overages, wide spots, etc., will become nice and even.

Someone said to use Polyseamseal. I agree - it is the best to use. However, if you see White Lightning, it is just as good and half the price. It is also an adhesive caulk. I use it when I install soap dishes, etc., in tile showers.

And if you use the paper towel, damp sponge, it won't matter if you apply too much caulk, as you will soon be getting it off. Just remember to wet and clean the sponge each time you wipe with it.

Glenn

I forgot to mention that I always use a grouting sponge, as it has rounded corners as opposed to square corners. Also when finished with the caulk, I place a wire nut over the end and it will seal everything but silicone.

[Ed62]

If you're not against it, a little saliva on your finger works well too.

Ed

[stormdog74]

Where do you buy backer rod at? I've heard of it and seen it on DIY shows, but I've never seen it for sale at HD or Lowe's.

You can buy it at HD/Lowes and probably any hardware store. I believe they have it in the weatherstripping area.

[Mr__Bill]

If you're not against it, a little saliva on your finger works well too.

Ed

It's licking that finger for the second pass that gets me