Polyurethane caulk?!?

[parnelli]

Has anyone used polyurethane caulk before? I've heard so many times on how it's the best, blah, blah, blah that I bought several tubes to use around the windows and doors outside.

a)It comes out like stiff construction adhesive.

b)It sticks to everything like construction adhesive.

c)I can't figure out for the life of me how to 'tool' this stuff into a decent looking joint/seam/whatever...

It's so darn hard to get out, that the seam is horrible looking- like I've never caulked in my life- but I can't smooth it out because it sticks to everything. Look at it funny and it's stuck to you!

Anyone ever use this stuff? Ideas? Anyone?

[IBBugsy]

My hand hurts just reading your post!! Had a job with construction adhesive a few weeks ago and the memory of the pain is still fresh.....

[Sam Conder]

Has anyone used polyurethane caulk before? I've heard so many times on how it's the best, blah, blah, blah that I bought several tubes to use around the windows and doors outside.

a)It comes out like stiff construction adhesive.

b)It sticks to everything like construction adhesive.

c)I can't figure out for the life of me how to 'tool' this stuff into a decent looking joint/seam/whatever...

It's so darn hard to get out, that the seam is horrible looking- like I've never caulked in my life- but I can't smooth it out because it sticks to everything. Look at it funny and it's stuck to you!

Anyone ever use this stuff? Ideas? Anyone?

Use a plastic spoon or a caulk tool and wet it with mineral spirits. Re wet it as needed.

[cabinetman]

I don't use that stuff for the reasons you mentioned. I prefer to use Polyseamseal Adhesive Caulk.
.

[sd]

We use lots of that stuff at work. I've got a few suggestions that may help you:

1. Get a good, high-leverage caulking gun such as the Cox Extra-Thrust gun, or a cordless gun (Ryobi makes a reasonably-priced cordless caulking gun that should be adequate for the job--get the expensive Milwaukee cordless gun if you're going to use it every day.)

2. Check the expiration date on the caulk. This stuff will start to set up in the tube if it's too old; it will be very stiff and can blow out the back of the tube and make an awful mess.

3. Warm the caulk tubes in a hot box (a wooden box with a light bulb inside) before use. It will be easier to apply, but it will "kick" faster. You must be sure to tool the caulk before it skins over.

4. Use a Bondo spreader or your gloved finger to tool the wet caulk. Spray some soapy water, Formula 409, or the like as a tooling agent to get a good smooth finish. Be aware that some chemicals, such as citrus cleaner, will prevent the wet caulk from curing properly. You can wear several pair of heavy-weight nitrile gloves on one hand and peel off the outer glove as it becomes too messy to work with.

5. Industrial citrus cleaner can be used to clean up while the caulk is still wet. Once it dries, it's pretty hard to get rid of. Don't expect to ever get your work clothes clean.

[Sam Conder]

We use lots of that stuff at work. I've got a few suggestions that may help you:

1. Get a good, high-leverage caulking gun such as the Cox Extra-Thrust gun, or a cordless gun (Ryobi makes a reasonably-priced cordless caulking gun that should be adequate for the job--get the expensive Milwaukee cordless gun if you're going to use it every day.)

2. Check the expiration date on the caulk. This stuff will start to set up in the tube if it's too old; it will be very stiff and can blow out the back of the tube and make an awful mess.

3. Warm the caulk tubes in a hot box (a wooden box with a light bulb inside) before use. It will be easier to apply, but it will "kick" faster. You must be sure to tool the caulk before it skins over.

4. Use a Bondo spreader or your gloved finger to tool the wet caulk. Spray some soapy water, Formula 409, or the like as a tooling agent to get a good smooth finish. Be aware that some chemicals, such as citrus cleaner, will prevent the wet caulk from curing properly. You can wear several pair of heavy-weight nitrile gloves on one hand and peel off the outer glove as it becomes too messy to work with.

5. Industrial citrus cleaner can be used to clean up while the caulk is still wet. Once it dries, it's pretty hard to get rid of. Don't expect to ever get your work clothes clean.

Water/citrus based solvents won't work well wit hthe poly caulk will it? That's why I suggested minieral spirits.

[Tom Slick]

I've found that having a rag soaked in laquer thinner works best for clean up.
soapy water helps for tooling
do a small section at a time
work fast
work fast
lay down a small/thin bead
push the gun rather then pull
did I mention work fast?

once it starts to skin the party is over.

[jking]

One problem with polyurethane caulk, IIRC, is it not paintable. Polyurethane caulk is more commonly used in commercial applications.

If you are looking for an alternative, I'd suggest the GE paintable 100% silicone (I think XST is the designation they labelit with). I would stay away from any latex or latex w/ silicone. I've had nothing but bad experiences with latex based caulk.

[parnelli]

One problem with polyurethane caulk, IIRC, is it not paintable. Polyurethane caulk is more commonly used in commercial applications.

If you are looking for an alternative, I'd suggest the GE paintable 100% silicone (I think XST is the designation they labelit with). I would stay away from any latex or latex w/ silicone. I've had nothing but bad experiences with latex based caulk.

I had used the XST on the back door just a couple years back and it's already needing to be replaced. That's why I went to the poly.

I suppose the poly could be more used commercially, but I got it at the home center mostly because

- It's supposed to last longer than pretty much anything.
- It *is* actually paintable
- Unlike silicone, I understand that you can go-over the old poly to touch up in the future if needed

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!

[parnelli]

We use lots of that stuff at work. I've got a few suggestions that may help you:

1. Get a good, high-leverage caulking gun such as the Cox Extra-Thrust gun, or a cordless gun (Ryobi makes a reasonably-priced cordless caulking gun that should be adequate for the job--get the expensive Milwaukee cordless gun if you're going to use it every day.)

2. Check the expiration date on the caulk. This stuff will start to set up in the tube if it's too old; it will be very stiff and can blow out the back of the tube and make an awful mess.

3. Warm the caulk tubes in a hot box (a wooden box with a light bulb inside) before use. It will be easier to apply, but it will "kick" faster. You must be sure to tool the caulk before it skins over.

Hmmm. Both these popped into my head at some point. The tube says "shelf life 1 year", but then the date code isn't really a date, it's some undecipherable alphanumeric code.

I think I'll try warming it up and seeing what happens...

Thanks again everyone!

[Mr__Bill]

I use the stuff called Vulcan (sp?) comes in white, white with fiber in it - matches the siding texture, dark brown and some other colors. It is paintable after it cures and I have never gotten it to come off of anything. I have decided that the next time I am roofing I'll put a layer on my hands for protection from the shingles, should be good for several days of wear.

Fresh stuff comes out very easy and plastic wrap on the end will seal it up for the night and then in the morning you can run a big long screw into the tip and if you hold the screw in a vice and pull really hard on the tube and don't fall on your arse you can use it again.

Tomorrow I have to do some caulking, weather permitting and I am going to see if it will stick to silicon caulk, if it does then I have found a way to paint that @@#$% silicon.

Bill, on the Sunny Oregon Coast