Another issue on protecting a surface

[ironhat]

Well, not to be anything except odd, but I was given an old, crippled Remington 870 shotgun with rust and pits on all metal surfaces and about the most mismatched, ugly combination of walnut pieces which form the stock. I did a cold blue process on the barrel and receiver (passable but not great) and I chose to paint the wood . I initially painted the surfaces with Aluma-Hyde II, epoxy spray and then painted over this with one of the new Rust-Oleum, heavily textured spray paint. Now, I'm wondering if I should shoot a polyacrylic over that since, as i understand, it hardens with age. Does it harden moreso than the paint? I don't know. I know that surface prep is everything so I did my homework on that.

What are your thoughts? Leave it alone or cover it with something?

TIA

[cabinetman]

You didn't ask for alternative opinion, but iffin it were me, I would strip all the paint off and get back to bare wood. Odd color matches can be toned to match, and then can be finished.

But, to answer your question, you'll be adding to two different types of paint with different characteristics. You can apply the poly over the previous paint. Whether the poly will be harder is questionable as the existing applications may have been compromised. The more paint and coatings you load up, the more surface film will exist to get dinged, and damaged.
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[ironhat]

Yea, c.man, the multiple surfaces did occur to me so that's why I asked. I needed to get this done as dove season is about to open and I'm not afraid to do it all over and I do mean *all*. I really don't think that the paint will hold up to working the action and being snapped to my shoulder, rushing against jackets or vests but it does look neat as all get out. We'll just see what flies. Either way, I may be stuck with the gray epoxy - I've never tried to get that stuff off of anything.

[cabinetman]

To strip off epoxy, you may have to resort to an MC based chemical stripper. A WB strippper is more friendly, but it may not have the oomph for epoxy. I prefer finished wood gunstocks, unless it's an XM 177, or a Remington 870 Tactical.
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[shoottx]

Remington *870's are something I am familiar with.

Depending on how you are planning on using this 870, you have several options;

Options in no specialt order

1. finding used wood for an 870 is fairly easy. If you go to Trapshooters.com and post you are looking for used wood at a reasonable price you will be deluged with offers. http://www.trapshooters.com/cfpages/sthreads.cfm

2. You can buy several grades of stocks from Wenig, partially inlet and then do the final fitting and finish to your satisfaction. http://www.wenig.com/

3. You can buy a good adjustable stock from Jack West. you can use fis stocks out of the box and or decorate and paint them. 541 454 2805 jwstocks.com

4. Here are several paint options for gun stocks:
http://justshutupandshoot.com
http://www.clayshootingusa.com/reade...aintedguns.pdf
http://www.angleport.com/custompaint.asp?C=231641


5. Go shoot it just the way it is. And then decide what you want to do after dove season is over. I don't think doves can tell the quality of your gun stock paint job while laughing at you when you miss.

If you want a couple of hints on making the gun work smoother drop me a note.

I have three Jack Wests, three all wood stocks and one Wenig on an 870's only .

Here is an 870 we set up for my nephew, he painted the jack west stock

PM me if you have any questions I can help with