Closet door advice

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  • KLF
    Forum Newbie
    • Jun 2006
    • 98
    • Barrington NH
    • BT3000 (of course)

    Closet door advice

    I need to replace the pair of doors on a closet in a bedroom I am refurbing. The previous doors were louvered bi-fold, but they look original from the 70's, the hardware is all worn out and they fall out of the tracks now. No brand on them to get spare parts, so I have to replace them. I already threw one of them away a few years ago. I should add that this is in a house that I am putting on the market ASAP, so I'm trying to spend as little as possible while having it look decent. I can't leave the doors off (looks stupid), and I can't just hang a curtain (would also look stupid). Sliding doors are out due to the configuration.

    The problem is the finished openings are not a standard size. They are about 29-1/4" wide, and 77-1/2" high. Fixing the openings would require significant re-framing and trim work, and moving a light switch. Not gonna happen, the walls and trim are all freshly painted.

    I bought a cheap ($57) Reliabilt louvered bi-fold door kit from Lowes, it is for a 30x80 opening, I was thinking I could shave the sides down with my Bosche hand planer, then cut the ends as needed. But now that I look at it in the opening and do some measuring, I am worried about the thing falling apart if I take that much off the top and bottom rails. The slats can't provide any structural support, so it's all up to the joints, which I think will be compromised. I haven't opened the packaging yet, so I can still return it if I come up with a better idea. This is turning into too big of a project!

    Just wondering if anybody might have another idea that I am missing...

    Thanks for reading!
  • Tom Slick
    Veteran Member
    • May 2005
    • 2913
    • Paso Robles, Calif, USA.
    • sears BT3 clone

    #2
    you can certainly adjust the width with no problems. the height you will need to make a new "plug" for the bottom of the door. it is actually fairly easy just cut 2.5 off the bottom with a circular saw and guide, then cut and glue in the new piece to fill in the hollow.
    Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison

    Comment

    • JimD
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 4187
      • Lexington, SC.

      #3
      Width should not be an issue. You should take a little off each side of each panel rather than taking it all off one because it would look bad and because it would be less strong.

      2 1/2 inches is a lot on height, however. How much I would take off the top and bottom would depend on how wide the top and bottom rails are. The final top rail should not be narrower than the verticle pieces (the stiles). If you can take 1 1/4 inches off each and have at least a couple inches width remaining, you should be OK. If you think the joint will not be strong enough, you could put a drywall screw into a plugged hole at each joint.

      Jim

      Comment

      • KLF
        Forum Newbie
        • Jun 2006
        • 98
        • Barrington NH
        • BT3000 (of course)

        #4
        I was gonna start by swiping 1/16" off each side at a time until the width is right.

        The top rail is currently 2-1/2" wide, the bottom is only 4-1/4". I think I will start by taking about an inch off the top, then the rest off the bottom. I'll sink some 3" screws into each joint before cutting, crosswise. I'll have to re-set the hinges, but fortunately they're not mortised, just surface mounted. If it doesn't work, I'm not out much.

        Not sure what I'm gonna do about the plastic bushings that seem to be glued into the top and bottom ends of the stiles for the pivots.

        Thanks!

        Comment

        • just started
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2008
          • 642
          • suburban Philly

          #5
          You may be able to split the cut off pieces with a chisel to get the plastic out and then glue it in a new hole.

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