tiling shower wall

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  • jussi
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 2162

    #1

    tiling shower wall

    I've tiled a few floors before but never a wall. Do you guys use a different type of mortar when tiling the shower walls as opposed to the floor? I've seen on the DIY shows sometimes they use regular mortar, sometimes they use mastik (sp?), and there was another product (forgot the name) they used on another show. I would think you'd need something with more adhesive.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own.
  • eccentrictinkerer
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2007
    • 669
    • Minneapolis, MN
    • BT-3000, 21829

    #2
    You'll want to use regular thinset. You shouldn't use pre-mix acrylic on normally wet walls (unless you plan to move in 3-5 years!).

    You did use cement backer board, right?
    You might think I haven't contributed much to the world, but a large number
    of the warning labels on tools can be traced back to things I've done...

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    • Rand
      Established Member
      • May 2005
      • 492
      • Vancouver, WA, USA.

      #3
      Lots of good tile information here:

      http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
      Rand
      "If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like your thumb."

      Comment

      • jussi
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 2162

        #4
        Originally posted by eccentrictinkerer
        You'll want to use regular thinset. You shouldn't use pre-mix acrylic on normally wet walls (unless you plan to move in 3-5 years!).
        Good to know. That's the stuff I normally use



        Originally posted by eccentrictinkerer
        You did use cement backer board, right?
        I haven't put that backerboard yet but I have already bought hardibacker. Should be the same right? Also do you bring the backerboard over the lip (the part that is screwed onto the studs) of the shower pan or does only the tile go over that? I know you're supposed to leave a 1/8 gap for silicone where tile and shower pan meet.
        Last edited by jussi; 05-19-2008, 10:04 PM.
        I reject your reality and substitute my own.

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        • bthorne
          Forum Newbie
          • Oct 2007
          • 82
          • Ruckersville, VA
          • Craftsman 21829

          #5
          You can bring the backer board down over that lip (furring out the studs a bit makes sure the hardibacker stays plumb), but stop it 1/4 inch before the bottom. That way, you only have 1/8 inch of tile unsupported by backer board / thinset.

          I second Rand's recommendation of the John Bridge forums. Their assistance was very valuable when LOML and I were tiling our bathrooms.

          Bryan
          --
          Bryan

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          • eccentrictinkerer
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2007
            • 669
            • Minneapolis, MN
            • BT-3000, 21829

            #6
            Originally posted by jussi
            I haven't put that backerboard yet but I have already bought hardibacker. Should be the same right? Also do you bring the backerboard over the lip (the part that is screwed onto the studs) of the shower pan or does only the tile go over that? I know you're supposed to leave a 1/8 gap for silicone where tile and shower pan meet.
            You can bring the Hardibacker over the lip, but don't let it touch the horizontal part. Water can wick up if the backer goes too low. Run the tile down to within 1/8" of the base. The caulk will fill the gap.

            I finished hardibacking a shower today.Tomorrow I'm putting in the first layer of concrete for the shower pan.

            I swear they're making the 80 lb. sacks of cement heavier lately.

            Or maybe they just feel heavier now that I'm applying for Social Security at 10 tomorrow morning! How did I get to be this old?
            You might think I haven't contributed much to the world, but a large number
            of the warning labels on tools can be traced back to things I've done...

            Comment

            • jussi
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2007
              • 2162

              #7
              Originally posted by Rand
              Lots of good tile information here:

              http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
              Thanks Rand I'll give 'er a read.
              I reject your reality and substitute my own.

              Comment

              • just started
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2008
                • 642
                • suburban Philly

                #8
                I picked up a tip from Holmesie last night on wall tiling - run the notched trowel across the wall, not up and down, for the final strokes since that will provide better control of keeping the tile from sliding down until the thinset sets. He also said he is against running the backer onto the base lip. He said to keep the backer board flat and meeting the tub flange along the top. Then when you tile run the thinset all the way down over the flange and thick enough to fill the the space under the last bit of tile. Acording to him thinset and grout are waterproof and if done correctly no additional sealing is needed.

                Comment

                • rnelson0
                  Established Member
                  • Feb 2008
                  • 424
                  • Midlothian, VA (Richmond)
                  • Firestorm FS2500TS

                  #9
                  Acording to him thinset and grout are waterproof and if done correctly no additional sealing is needed.
                  Technically, he's correct. However, all it takes a slight gap between the grout and the tile to let water in - it's only waterproof where it exists! You shouldn't have this problem between tiles if you do things right, but at the bottom of the wall, it can certainly happen as objects expand and contract and settle. It would be best to presume that there will be a tiny bit of water that gets through, which is why you have greenboard or a water vapor behind the whole thing, right?


                  Mastic is a pre-mixed thinset, typically with a lighter hold weight. It's great for a backsplash, something that's only 3' high, but I wouldn't advise it for a full wall. I used it above a fiberglass shower enclosure and it was great, that was 2'9" height and certainly not a place where running water should have been.

                  Comment

                  • JimD
                    Veteran Member
                    • Feb 2003
                    • 4187
                    • Lexington, SC.

                    #10
                    Caulk also goes in the corners. Grout all except the corners and at the bottom next to the tub. The tile will slide down the wall before the thin set sets up so have spacers for the bottom and between the rows of tile. I use the little plastic crosses but I do not put them permenantly in place so I am still using the same bag I bought a decade or more ago.

                    Jim

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