Help! Shower Faucer Problems

[BigguyZ]

OKay, so this is the first time installing a dial-style shower faucet. I installed a two-stem faucet in my personal bathroom about a year ago, and when I did there was some play on the depth you need to mount the faucet body to.

Well, when I mounted this one, I did my best to mount it at a level where the plastic plate will be at the same depth as the finished wall. However, with adding the Durock and Tile to the framing, I'm about 1/4-1/2" off. I wouldn't have imagined that the tolerance for mounting this sucker would be SO tight, but apparently it is!

So, not the bolts for the main faceplate don't reach the faucet body, and stem cover won't reach the threads on the stem, and the handle won't reach the top of the stem....

I'll attach some pictures so you can get an idea of what's going on here.

Any suggestions on how I can fix this? Aside from tearing down the wall and re-doing the whole thing (not an option. It looks waaaay to nice, and took waay too long (I'll post pics when it's all 100%)).

Thanks!

[Rand]

Ouch..

Can you access it from behind? Drywall is a lot easier to patch.

You could carefully remove the 2 tiles reset the valve and put two new tiles in.

The only other thing I can think of is getting a replacement faceplate that sits flat against the tile.

Hope that helps.

[BigguyZ]

Can't access from behind. And even if I could, it was a weird situation and the mounting method wouldn't allow it to be moved- at least without having the entire wall removed....

Why would there be no "wiggle room" for something like that??

[TheRic]

I would get longer screws / bolts for the face plate. And a faucet stem extension. Not sure how product dependent the stems are.

[crokett]

How is the faucet body plumbed? Pex? Copper? How is it mounted? In the first pic it looks like 2 brass screws, 1 each side of the stem are what holds it on.

You should be able to find longer screws, not sure about a stem extension. If you can't find it can you not remove the facuet body and shim behind it to bring it forward the 1/4" you need?

[jhart]

You might want to check Park Plummer Supply over near Lake St. and Hiawatha, in So. Minneapolis. They are super helpful and always have the replacement part. Huge inventory. I think it's just called Park Supply.

[rnelson0]

As a last resort, you could grind away the tile a hair to allow it to mount flush. I'm not sure how you get that precise, but you might be able to hire someone who can do it for relatively cheap. Your faceplate would need caulked around it because it would be inset and sure to trap water, though.

[poolhound]

I agree with the OPs about the faceplate screws they are probably pretty standard and you can just get longer ones.

For the facet stem (assuming you have enough room in that extension nozzle thing) you could use a die and thread the outside of it and then get another small piece of brass (i assume thats what it is) tap one end to match the thread you just cut and the other to match the orginal end.

[poolhound]

Actually I just thought of an easier option. Get a piece of material the same Dia as the current stem, drill and tap both ends with the same thread. Get a screw that matches the thread. cut off the head and screw the two pieces togther. Once you are sure its just right add the glue of your choice to the mating pieces and there ya go.......

[pecker]

Once you get the longer screws and install them, it may pull the whole thing forward enough that the stem cover thingie will fit properly. Unless you mounted the mixing valve assembly to something solid and it can't move.