How to level basement floor for framing?

[Garasaki]

Hey folks, I wonder if anyone could give me some opinions on a "opportunity" I have run across in framing my basement for finishing.

I want to add some interior walls near a floor drain as shown in the following drawing:



Problem is, no surprise, the floor has a signifigant slope to it near the floor drain. The slope is approximately 1.5" over a distance of 6 feet. (see pictures at the bottom, featuring a six foot level). It slopes in every direction towards the drain. The floor is "painted" with Drylock.

I'd like to build the interior walls as close to the floor drain as possible. The flooring will eventually be Delta FL (platon maybe) followed by OSB then carpet - no tile, so perfect leveling is not my goal. I really just want a suitable surface to set a wall down on.

How would you go about leveling this floor?

[Crash2510]

not really sure why you would have to level the wall without seeing it. Why just not build the wall with the bottom plate flat on the floor, while adjusting the studs to make the top plate level. This of course will involve cutting the drywall for the angle.

[Stormbringer]

not really sure why you would have to level the wall without seeing it. Why just not build the wall with the bottom plate flat on the floor, while adjusting the studs to make the top plate level. This of course will involve cutting the drywall for the angle.

What I was going to say exactly. And you won't even have to go cutting the drywall angle Crash refernces if your laying down osb and will be using baseboard molding. Install the drywall vertically and you'll only have a 1" difference across the bottom four feet (based on your 1.5" across 6' measurement). The delta fl, osb and carpet will cover the 1" gap on the end of the sheet anyway.

Good luck,
greg

[430752]

floor drain?

they sloped the floor to the drain for a reason. Maybe the reason never arose, i.e. your basement is dry, but otherwise you want to allow for proper drainage even if only once a year. I agree that you don't need to level the floor instead just installing the walls and cutting the drywall appropriately or using the flooring materials to compensate. This is unless the basement will be finished for a nice purpose, then maybe a 1.5" slope over 6 feet would be bothersome. Don't think so, but perhaps. Otherwise, for a shop or whatever I'd let the floor remain as is, maybe notch the bottom sill stud to allow for drainage or something, and adjust your tool stands accordingly.

what did you have in mind which caused you to ask?

[Garasaki]

For some reason, building the wall in place never occured to me

The only problem I have with that approach is that I will eventually have to level the floor, as it will end up being a kids playroom - again with the delta fl, osb, carpet flooring.

Let me clarify this, one side, the side that I have placed the level on in the pics, is going to be a playroom. The other side will be storage with no flooring at all - so my concern is only on the playroom sides. The remaining 2 sides will keep the sloped floor as is.

I suppose I was thinking I'd try to level it all at once, was thinking a self leveling compound sort of thing, but I think I like the "build an unlevel wall" approach, and deal with the slope when it comes times for flooring?

One advantage of doing that, is that I can leave some gaps in the sill plate that would allow water to flow to the floor drain from the "finished side" if there was ever water on the floor.

[Crash2510]

was wondering if you were going to put padding down underneath the carpet I ask because you could be asking fo a world of trouble with the osb on the floor. If you ever do have water problems it would mean ripping up the whole floor rather than just sucking the water out of the carpet. at the very least I would use regular plywood because it will resist some moisture. You could also just lay the carpet and pad directly on the slab if it is dry.

another choice would be framing floor joists and adding them to the floor to level it Don't know how extensive you want this project to be though. I've done this it is very labor intensive.

[Garasaki]

You may not be familiar with the Delta FL type products:

http://www.deltafl.com/

One of the great advantages of them is that if you get water on the floor, it's touching concrete on the bottom and plastic everywhere else (unless you have A LOT of water). And if ever do get a staturated carpet, you have airflow underneath it to help it dry out and prevent mold.

[pelligrini]

The only problem I have with that approach is that I will eventually have to level the floor, as it will end up being a kids playroom - again with the delta fl, osb, carpet flooring.

How are you planning on leveling the floor? and where are the doors to the room going to be?

If you're thinking about using something like Levelrock you might want to do a double bottom plate and just use the framing as your forms. We do that with the condos we do concrete floors on. If you just do a single plate and add 1" of material there isn't much left on the plate to attach your sheathing to.

If the doors are on the low side of the floor you're going to end up with a pretty tall transition.

I don't think the kids would mind a sloped floor in a playroom, but you might have a problem with all the balls congregating in the corner.

[JimD]

It the finish floor will be carpet and there is no doorway nearby, I doubt you would really notice the difference. If you want to eliminate it, I would build the wall close to the floor, you may not be able to bend the bottom plate enough to get it tight but I would try, and then use leveling compound in the playroom. The wall would contain the leveling compound (the stuff I have seen is real running so that it can level itself).

Jim

[moc]

the Delta FL type products:

http://www.deltafl.com/

I used Delta FL a few years back when I refinished my basement.

I used a layer of Delta FL and then put Mannington's iCore on top of it. iCore is a fake-wood floor that is 100% plastic (pardon me, "extruded synthetic") rather than the usual particle board underlying pergo-type laminate floors. So it is completely waterproof.

This time of year, I can get a nice little stream under the floor heading to the drain without ever having a problem with mold or moisture on the floor or rugs.

My point? The masses were screaming, "Mike, what's on your basement floor?"

Weren't they?

*moc

[rnelson0]

As others have said, there's a reason for a slope and drain. Usually, that reason is local code. Check with your local enforcement agency (township or county usually) and find out if the slope needs to be there in a finished room.