Where carpet and tile meet...

[BrianStark]

I am planning on installing new tile in a bathroom, and the hallway outside the bathroom has berber carpet. What is the best way to create a professional looking appearance where the carpet and the tile will meet?

In the attached picture, the old linoleum will be ripped out. Subfloor is 5/8" exterior grade plywood. It is in good condition and stays. New floor will be built as follows: layer of dry-set mortar, 1/4" thick Hardibacker cement board, more mortar and finally topped off with 5/16" thick floor tile.

I've installed tile before, but last time it was at a previous residence where the hallway had laminate flooring and I just used one of those matching "T" mouldings from the laminate floor company.

Currently the carpet has a curved metal edge on it where it meets the old linoleum type flooring in the bathroom. Do I want to remove the metal edge and bring the carpet right up to the new tile (possibly requiring a new carpet tack strip), or is there a different type of metal edge that I should use where carpet meets tile?

The tile that meets up with the carpet will likely be cut to size, do I want to add a bevel to the edge that meets the carpet?


thanks,

Brian

[doncook7]

there are eight examples on this page...

http://www.genotek.com/products/transitions/506.htm

hope it helps.

don

[Daryl]

You may not be able to in your situation, but I would try to fold the carpet edge under itself and try to have it just a bit higher than the tile. I really hate jaming my foot onto a hard tile edge.

[LarryG]

Several ways to do this. If the hard tile is higher than the carpet, a marble threshold with a slight taper can be used. If the carpet is higher than the tile, you can use a metal or vinyl edge strip. If the two finish at about the same height, the last row of tile can be bullnosed so it has a finished edge and then the carpet butted to it. Or, one of the solutions that don links to can be used.

Really, it all depends on the relative levels of the two materials, and the look you want.

[eccentrictinkerer]

I've saved pieces of Corian from job demolitions. You can make flat or tapered transitions with your table saw.

[Copper]

In our basement finishing project, I brought the edge of the tile to just under where the door sits when it's closed. When they installed the carpet, they put down a tack strip and brought the carpet right up to the tile. No transition piece was installed. It looks great and you can't even see the transition when the door is closed. They might have put a little extra padding under the carpet near the transition to bring it up to the level of the tile, but I don't think they needed to. We had 1/2 inch padding installed.

[rnelson0]

There's a million ways to do it, but there's nothing essentially difference with tile-to-carpet as there is with lino-to-carpet. You could probably use the same metal strip if you can remove it without bending.

I used a wood block for my transition and just notched it around the door jamb. They sell all kinds, where both sides are the same elevation, where one side is slightly higher or where one side is drastically higher. Go to a store and take a look - there's probably just as many to choose from as there are tiles and grout colors.

[Rslaugh]

After looking at the transitions available at both HD & Lowes I made my own out of 1x3 oak. I tpered each side on the top 15 degrees and rabbeted the bottom on both sides leaving a 1/4 by 1/4 ridge down the center.

[crokett]

I picked up a vinyl transition at HD that was color matched as closely as I could get it to the mortar. It goes in the thinset under the tile and you can grout between it and the tile. Gave me a very nice edge to my transition.

[JimD]

All our transitions are marble pieces. I put in two.

Jim

[Schleeper]

Marble threshold. (But I wish I'd thought to use leftover Corian. Great idea!)