new window casings how to?

[drunkcat]

We just moved into a new construction home. The windows have no casings. They have drywall "jambs" with a builder grade sill. The windows are vinyl.

I want to replicate the casings in our old bungalow we sold to include a stool and apron. I plan on stained oak. In the old house the side casing laid over the wood jamb leaving an ~ 1/8 inch reveal of the jamb.

It seems to me that a 1/8 reveal of drywall would be weird. Is it appropriate to apply the side casings flush with the dry wall (seems like it may be hard)? Do I need to pull out the drywall? What would the pros do?

Thanks!

Scott

[chopnhack]

Personally, if you do not have room to put stock over the "drywall jambs" and if this is going to be paint grade then, yes you can reveal the drywall, caulk and paint and the uneveness would completely disappear. I would not rip our the drywall as the corner bead can rip out more than you like!

[Lonnie in Orlando]

I'm doing this off the top of my head. I'll try to post some pics of my ramblings in the next couple of days. I'll also try to link to some sites of window casings / trim for period houses. But, I'm entertaining family for the next few days.

===

As chopnhack noted, the corner bead and the floated drywall compound at the corner of the window well may be a problem. Either cut out the corner bead, or bevel the casing and "fake" window stops to produce 90 deg joints. Your windows probably have a track that stands proud of the drywall. Plane "stops" to a thickness that is a little less than the track.

Remove the current stool and apron - if any.
Mill a new stool -- a multi-shadow line on the edge is nice.
Add the casings and stops.
Finish with the apron.

Here is one way to make the stops ...
> attach the casing flush with the edge of the window opening. (bevel to account for the bead)
> plane "stops" to a thickness a little thinner than the window tracks.
> route a profile on the casing-edge of the stops
> overlap the casing to leave about a 1/8 - 1/4" reveal of the casing.

Here is another way ... more like what you describe ...
> plane "stops" to a thickness a little thinner than the window tracks.
> attach the stops to the window opening ending flush with the wall
> attach the casing to reveal about 1/8" - 1/4" of the stop.

Am I on the right track?

- Lonnie

[JimD]

Scott,

I do not see a way to make this look right that does not involve removal of the drywall from where the side jambs belong. What you have now is a window set in the opening with drywall, probably with a J bead on the edge closest to the window, nailed into the studs. At least that is what I am assuming you have. The drywall from the wall meets the drywall surrounding the window and then a piece of corner bead is fastened on and mudded. Taking the corner bead off will be a pain but I do not see a reasonable alternative. You could install casing around the opening pretending the drywall is a wood jamb but I wouldn't - I don't think you will like the look for long. Only other alternative I can think of is to apply a piece of wood over the drywall.

What I would do is to pull the corner bead (prepare your wife for the mess) then the drywall from where the jamb will go. Once you have the opening clear, you need to fasten jambs to the window (if possible) and the studs. My windows are vinyl but there is still wood around them so I am assuming there is for you too. If so, it is like installing extension jambs if you've ever done that. I would measure how wide they need to be to be flush with the inside wall (they may not be even so measure at several points), and try pocket screws on the back to attach to the existing window surround. If you cannot pocket screw them on or you have no wood around the window, shim side jambs flush with the sides of the window and nail them to the 2x4s. From there, it's normal window trim time. Hardest piece is the stool which would go in first. The the casings and then the apron.

You will ding up the drywall removing the corner bead but the mess should be covered by the window casings.

Jim

[JSUPreston]

What about this: Instead of removing sheetrock, use a thin sheet of ply (1/4") on the inside of the window, and have the trim work meet the edge of the ply on the inside.

I would think that this would probably produce the desired results, be quicker, cheaper and easier, and would also be removable if sometime later on you decide you don't want it anymore, since the drywall (sheetrock here in 'Bama) would still be underneath everything.

[stormdog74]

What about this: Instead of removing sheetrock, use a thin sheet of ply (1/4") on the inside of the window, and have the trim work meet the edge of the ply on the inside.

I would think that this would probably produce the desired results, be quicker, cheaper and easier, and would also be removable if sometime later on you decide you don't want it anymore, since the drywall (sheetrock here in 'Bama) would still be underneath everything.

This is exactly what I did and it looks really good. Since my walls were textured as well and I wanted a smooth look around the windows this was an easy solution.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Here's a follow up with pix to my previous post.

Link to diagram of typical double hung window. Click on "excerpt" and go to the second page of the excerpt ...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/1558...33#reader-link

This is an original 1908 double hung window in our house. I modified new windows to match this casing, stool, apron, and stops


This is a new wood window that was installed during our remodel that we completed this year. I had the plasterers to omit the corner bead on the window openings, so that I did not need to bevel the casings. You can see the vinyl track at the back of the stop. I had to leave the track proud of the stop, in order for it to be able to move when removing the window for cleaning.


Top casing and stop ...


This aluminum window was installed in an addition by the previous owner. The window originally had a marble sill and no trim. The wall at the window has a corner bead at the widow well. A few years ago, I attached trim parts on top of the corner bead. I had to bevel the casings to produce a square corner. I had to cut out some of the plaster board, and I had to refine the bevel a few times to get a square corner. It may have been easier to have removed the corner bead.


The fake window stops butt against the window guides and over lap the casing.

Edge details that produce shadow lines on the stool, apron, and stops enhance the final look.

FYI - The stool extends an inch beyond the edge and the face of the casings.

- Lonnie

[Pappy]

What about this: Instead of removing sheetrock, use a thin sheet of ply (1/4") on the inside of the window, and have the trim work meet the edge of the ply on the inside.

Great idea. I have been watching this thread since the wife wants the same thing done. The bathroom windows are not a problem since they are being gutted and getting moisture resistant 'rock. The other 12 have textured drywall jambs.

Instead of ply, I may resaw Maple or Poplar to 1/4" so I will have a clean edge for a reveal. The choice of wood depends on the final decision of painted or laquered trim.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

The fake window stops on my new windows in the photos are 1/4" thick nailed on top of drywall. The stops on the original windows are about 5/16".

- Lonnie

[JSUPreston]

Instead of ply, I may resaw Maple or Poplar to 1/4" so I will have a clean edge for a reveal. The choice of wood depends on the final decision of painted or laquered trim.

I should've thought of resawn or planed poplar. Would work quite well if painting. You're right, you could leave a nice reveal that would give it some additional depth.

[stormdog74]

I actually used quarter inch mdf and it has worked well - I caulked and painted of course.