Basement wall studs, sill plate

[LinuxRandal]

I am framing a wall in the basement for pegboard, and to run a bench the length of it. CCA no longer contains arsenic, which is why they used to say not to use it inside. Should I use this for the sill (may not be proper term) plate, on the floor, or regular lumber, etc?

Thanks

[Hellrazor]

Does your basement stay dry? If it does and you are still worried, take tarpaper and fold it a few times and lay it under the 2x4. Trim any excess off later.

I wouldn't worry about using a PT 2x4 in the basement... but that is up to you.

[newbie2wood]

The original purpose of pressure treating wood is to make it resistant to insects. Pressure treated lumber will weather like other types of wood, perhaps at a slower rate, if not coated with a preservative.

BTW, CCA means the wood is treated with an arsenic chemical. Look for lumber marked CA or ACQ. If it has a rating label, look for .40 (intended for ground contact).

PT 2x4's are commonly used for the sill plates in construction.
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[MilDoc]

If your basement floor is concrete and not sealed to the outside (ie, in contact with earth, like a lot of older slab floors), moisture will still seep in even though it looks dry. Any wood in contact will absorb the moisture. Tar paper under the wood would be my choice.

[JimD]

I always use a PT sole plate in basement walls. It may not be necessary but adds very little to the cost. I get worried about condensation in basements and I figure there could be a little even in a dry basement. For the difference in cost, I cannot see taking the chance.

I have fastened sole plates down with tapcons and concrete nails but my favorite method is percussion nails. The type you hit with a hammer are inexpensive and work very well. I put down construction adhesive first so the nails just hold things in place until the adhesive sets up.

Jim

[eccentrictinkerer]

FWIW, in my state, PT is required for all sill plates below grade (also, all walls in commercial buildings). It's cheap insurance to prevent rot.

I re-model family rooms and baths, and in 50% of my tear-outs I find evidence of rot damage.

[dkerfoot]

I agree - PT for anything that comes in direct contact with concrete floor or exterior walls. Cheap insurance.

[JSUPreston]

I think I would also put down a coat or two of Drylock before framing. It's supposed to seal the concrete.

[LinuxRandal]

Thanks all


House was built in the 20's, concrete floor added sometime around 1940 when they went to sewers (have one lump that was filled later, when the gravity furnace was removed (originally coal, still have the room). So I doubt the floor was sealed. Walls were sealed around 1960 with that old waterproofing cement mixture that the oldtimers used. I am hoping I can get by without attaching it to the floor, as the top will hold pegboard (the reason for the wall), and the bottom is just back support (legs) for a workbench.

[LarryG]

Wood framing in direct contact with concrete or masonry, regardless of location and no matter how dry, should ALWAYS be PT material. This is our standard specification for all projects.