Staining Pine Bar Top

[Greg.B]

Well over the weekend I made the cabinets/shelves for behind the bar. The construction came out pretty good, and the next step will be sanding & staining.

From what I have read a pre-stain conditioner is necessary. Now my questions.

After I have done the conditioner and then stain and am happy with the color, how should I protect. The LOML is looking for one of those thick looking finishes, like you would see at bar. (Almost like a resin poured one).

I was thinking that a high build poly would be the way to go, but I have never done anything where I was trying to achieve this look.

[schloff]

Hi there.

Pine isn't my specialty, but I've heard that this (or similar) works well as a bar top coat.


http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=293-001

[chavem33]

I would not use the conditioner. I would use a 1lb cut of shellac before you stain.
The epoxy coating is the way to go for a really tuff surface but it is extremely hard to us. So I would take a scrap piece of wood and practice on that, because if you mess up on that it will take awhile to remove that stuff.

[cabinetman]

As far as your color choice and procedures to get there, definitely practice on a scrap. As for the top coating, it would take many coats of poly to get that build you're looking for. You'll also have to allow for the dry time for each coat of poly. For the 2 part resin pour on stuff, it's pretty easy. Just set up the top flat and level somewhere fairly dust free where it can sit until dry. For any vertical edges, brush on the mix before pouring, so that there won't be any drip/builds in different areas. Brushing the vertical edges first allows the pour to run off evenly. If It's a "U" shape, start in the middle and pour out to the ends (it's better with two people). Make sure you mix enough to do the entire top. If you have an edge to pour to, like an outer trim, fill to that level, keeping a watch for an even pour.

Let it run off the top onto paper or something on the floor. Use a heat gun to bring up any bubbles. For some brands, and if you are experienced with this process, you can use a propane torch, but the heat gun is safer. When the mix has started to kick off and you'll be able to tell by feeling the underside, wait until it's in a dense gel state, not hardened yet, and cut off the excess underneath. Then when cured, sand the underside.

[Popeye]

My 2 cents... I've used conditioner and not used conditioner and had the finish come out good both ways. Havn't tried shellac but it has a rep. as a good sealer prior to staining.
The two part resin would be good for a bar top but I'd think doing very many shelves and such behind the bar might be a pita not to mention the stuff ain't cheap. For things that won't see alot of dampness I use lacquer. For shelves that might see wet glasses I'd use poly. I've become a big fan of waterbased poly because it doesn't add color and dries fast, the down side is that it's expensive compared to regular poly. Pat

[Greg.B]

All great suggestions.

I've though about the 2 part resin, one thing to consider is that this is already built in place. It's not really the actual bar top, but the area under the bar top, where there is room to make drinks, sink, storage, etc.

Popeye made a good point, there are layers of shelves, bottom, middle and top.

I should give some more detail as well. Its L - Shaped, and built around a drywall covered wall.

I will be building the actual bar top shortly but figured it would be easier to work on this without the top in place as the top overhangs this.

[Pappy]

For the top on the bar I just finished, I used Waterlox Crystal Clear Urethane that I bought at Woodcraft. The label lists bar tops as one of the recommended uses. Brushed the first coat on with a good China bristle brush and sprayed the second coat. Both applications were easy and satifactory.

Another possibility is Behlin Rock Hard Table Top Varnish. Drawbacks are that it has more amber tone and requires a spcial thinner.

[Greg.B]

Thanks for the heads up Pappy.

I have so far done the sanding and am ready to pre-condition and stain.
Then I will have to figure out the top coat. I have a Woodcraft nearby so I will look into that.

Can you give me an idea of what the finished product looked like ? I dont have the ability to spray, so can a thicker appearing coat be done via a brush ?

[Greg.B]

Hey Pappy,

I looked for the Waterlox product you spoke of. No luck. Maybe its a different name than your calling it. Let me know which you used.

https://www.waterlox.com/desktopmodu...aspx?TabID=424

[Pappy]

It's the Oil-Modified Urethane - Gloss XL-88. I didn't see it on the Woodcraft site, but that is where I got it. I can get the SKU off the receipt for you if it will help. It lays really well with a brush. I only sprayed the second coat to eliminate the possibility of bristles in the finish.