Leaking in roof around vent stack?

[cgallery]

We're getting a little bit of water on the 2nd floor ceiling when it rains. I see light around where the 4" CI vent stack pokes through the roof, in the same area as the water is hitting the ceiling.

In looking at the roof from the street, it doesn't appear that the roofers used any flashing over the vent stack when the roof was done (about ten or twelve years ago).

Can I add flashing now? Without having to remove shingles? Something like this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...25R&lpage=none

Or do I need to just caulk around it, with something like this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...esc&lpage=none

Any input would be welcome.

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning CG...

Do both as should have been done in the first place... If you have had it re-roofed recently, call your roofer and point it out. They should fix it at no charge as anyone that proclaims to be roofer should have done in the first place.

They weren't roofers, they were just day laborers without a clue and un-supervised. Whoever was in charge should have inspected and found such a no-no before they left the premises. Do you have a sturdy rope and a good solid oak tree around.... ahhh, never mind.

BTW... if you do it, be sure to get flashing that has a rubber boot on top that fits snuggly around the vent pipe. I will even run a bead of silicone caulk around the top lip of it after it has seated also... just for an extra hedge.

Regards...

[skruffy]

I agree with Sarge - you need both and you want flashing that has a rubber boot. And make sure you get one for the proper pitch of your roof.

But you can't just lay that flashing on top of your shingles, you have to make sure that it is under the upper shingles. This might mean pulling up a couple of shingles, but you may also be able to work it under. Here's a pretty good video tutorial: http://www.ehow.com/how_115930_repai...-flashing.html

[cabinetman]

We're getting a little bit of water on the 2nd floor ceiling when it rains. I see light around where the 4" CI vent stack pokes through the roof, in the same area as the water is hitting the ceiling.

In looking at the roof from the street, it doesn't appear that the roofers used any flashing over the vent stack when the roof was done (about ten or twelve years ago).

Can I add flashing now? Without having to remove shingles? Something like this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...25R&lpage=none

Or do I need to just caulk around it, with something like this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...esc&lpage=none

Any input would be welcome.

Unless you've done this before, it's tricky removing shingles. The stack may be flashed already, but you may not see it. If you have a leak around the stack, go to HD and pick up a can of Gardner's Wet-R-Dry, plastic roof cement (red can). Smear a bead around the base of the stack where it meets the roof. The stuff is very thick. I use a paint stir stick, and dispose of it when done.

[TheRic]

I agree with Sarge, do both. The first link shows the metal flashing only. I think there is also suppose to be a rubber piece that makes sure you have a nice tight fit, it might be sold separately. Then again maybe the new styles don't use / need it, it has been years since I had to put one on.

Don't just put the flashing on over the top of the shingles. You have to get some of it up under the shingles. The flashing would be exposed below the pipe, but under the shingles above the pipe.

[jAngiel]

I'm no expert but I do not believe you can install flashing properly without having to remove some of the shingles below the vent.

I had a similar problem with a vent on my roof and caulked around it successfully with the black goo in a tube (like you referenced). It sealed off the leak without any problems.

[SARGE..g-47]

"I'm no expert but I do not believe you can install flashing properly without having to remove some of the shingles below the vent"... ja

Actually you can.. If done properly to begin with, the flashing should have been laid flat on the roof and attached.. then shingled over with a cut in the shingles to surround the flashing boot.

But.. it can be slid under the upper shingle above and over-lap the shingle below. I would drill a few pilot holes in the over-lap portion slightly smaller than the roofing nails used to secure it down to keep if from lifting in high wind. Then caulk it all good.. real good.

I had a 6" hole punched in my roof two years ago by a falling limb from a pine tree in an ice storm. In lieu of pull up shingles and re-roof the whole section, I chose to add a vent stack even though there is no vent pipe coming out. It was on the back side of the house and I used the method above over-lapping the bottom portion of the flashing over the lower shingle.

Would Martha Stewart approve... who cares at my house as it got the job done well without having to remove a larger protion of shingles to repair the six inch diameter hole in the actual sheathing underneath the shingles. To replace that sheathing, a large section of shingles would have to have been removed to get to it.

30 minutes and I have a fake vent on the back-side of my house. Back to the shop for under $12 instead of around $500.

Regards...

[scorrpio]

Getting that flashing - especially one with a rubber seal - around the vent stack AND under the upper shingle will be extremely tricky. Yet, you need drainage overap.

Here's what you do:
1. Put the vent flashing over the stack, getting some sealer underneath it, and around its edges as well. A bit of silicone between flashing and stack - event if it has a boot - won't hurt either. You put the flashing right on top of the shingles.

2. Using long thin knife, lift the tabs of shingle(s) right above the vent flashing.

3. Cut a piece of aluminum flashing that is at least 8" longer than vent flashing flange, width, and wide enough to slide all the way under the raised shingle tabs, and overlap the vent flashing by 2-3".

4. Liberally apply sealer compound to the aluminum sheet, slide under the tabs, get it to ovelap vent flashing. Seal around edges. Putting a staple through it under each shingle is a good idea. Then squeeze in a bed of sealer on top of the staples, and press the shingle tabs down.

Now, you have a shingle that overlaps an aluminum sheet that overlaps the vent flashing - creating a continuous drain plane.