Artificial stone Q

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  • ironhat
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2004
    • 2553
    • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
    • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

    #1

    Artificial stone Q

    I'm getting older and so is the T1-11 on my house so I'm considering going with an artificial stone. Is there any odd problem with the stuff that I should know about and the deal is not going to be inclined to tell me? Is it worth the effort and expense to have them also install the thin foamboard that is used under vinyl siding? I was always told that it's too little to be bothered with but isn't something better than nothing? This is an early '70's rancher with 3.5" insulation in the walls. I'm thinking that my insulation dollars would be better spent in the attic.
    TIA,
    Chiz
    Blessings,
    Chiz
  • jlake1998
    Forum Newbie
    • Mar 2006
    • 37
    • Washington
    • BT3100

    #2
    I would consider using 4' X 8' sheets of fiber cement (james hardie siding makes this) and have it installed over the T-111. On the truss area or side roof line area you could use fiber cement lap siding approx 6" X 12'

    As for the brick you could use to add some acents around entry way maybe even a patio.
    well theres some food for thought ,, good luck with it....

    Comment

    • ironhat
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2004
      • 2553
      • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
      • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

      #3
      Thanks for the input. I don't have a gable end on the house - it's a hip roof. I'm trying to retain the 'feel' of the house which is, for want of a better description, is California. DOesn't look like the tract house rancher that it really is. Interesting thought on breaking it all up, though. All stone could be a little much.

      I appreciate you taking time to post,
      Chiz
      Blessings,
      Chiz

      Comment

      • Hellrazor
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2003
        • 2091
        • Abyss, PA
        • Ridgid R4512

        #4
        Don't install anything over t111 if you are not 100% sure of its condition. I have a few questions/statements about the framing,etc.

        1. Whats under the t111? Just the studs, plywood or that black fiberboard insulation?

        2. Is there a vapour barrier installed anyplace under the t111?

        3. Do you have the room at the windows and doors to install the foam insulation without having to bump the trim out/cap anything to make it look right?

        Recommendations:

        If the T111 is sound and you have the room for the insulation:
        1. Install the 4x8 insulation over the t111.
        2. Install tyvek for a moisture barrier.

        If the T111 isn't sound and you have the room for the insulation:
        1. Remove T111 and shealth the house with the required thickness plywood if there isn't sheathing under the T111.
        2. Install the 4x8 insulation.
        3. Install tyvek.

        I'd recommend using tyvek, no matter what, as a moisture barrier.

        Comment

        • ironhat
          Veteran Member
          • Aug 2004
          • 2553
          • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
          • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

          #5
          Hi Mike, I'll post to your questions in blue

          Originally posted by Hellrazor
          Don't install anything over t111 if you are not 100% sure of its condition. I have a few questions/statements about the framing,etc.

          1. Whats under the t111? Just the studs, plywood or that black fiberboard insulation? Surprisingly, for the age of it I haven't found any signs of decay. There's a little delamination in a couple of spots less than 6" square each.

          2. Is there a vapour barrier installed anyplace under the t111? I have no clue to that one. I wasn't around when the replacement window were installed - it was built in the early '70's so, I'm guessing that it's doubtful.

          3. Do you have the room at the windows and doors to install the foam insulation without having to bump the trim out/cap anything to make it look right? I'm thinking that they will all have to be bumped out just to accomodate the stone.

          Recommendations:

          If the T111 is sound and you have the room for the insulation:
          1. Install the 4x8 insulation over the t111. Are you saying a 4x8 foot sheet here? If so, what thickness. I'm actually worried about adding too much thickness because it will eliminate the soffit and make the house look more like a cracker box.
          2. Install tyvek for a moisture barrier. I'm glad you said that. I was getting conflicting info from various people.

          If the T111 isn't sound and you have the room for the insulation: Moot now, I guess
          1. Remove T111 and shealth the house with the required thickness plywood if there isn't sheathing under the T111.
          2. Install the 4x8 insulation.
          3. Install tyvek.

          I'd recommend using tyvek, no matter what, as a moisture barrier.
          Thanks for your post. Much appreciated.
          Chiz
          Blessings,
          Chiz

          Comment

          • Hellrazor
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2003
            • 2091
            • Abyss, PA
            • Ridgid R4512

            #6
            Originally posted by ironhat
            1. Install the 4x8 insulation over the t111. Are you saying a 4x8 foot sheet here? If so, what thickness. I'm actually worried about adding too much thickness because it will eliminate the soffit and make the house look more like a cracker box.
            2. Install tyvek for a moisture barrier. I'm glad you said that. I was getting conflicting info from various people.
            1. Yes I would use the 4'x8' Tuff-R (Tuff-R has reflective foil on one side). I usually use 1/2" under vinyl siding. The 1/2" is rated at R3.3. Here is the manufacture link.

            http://www.dow.com/styrofoam/na/res-...cts/tuff_r.htm

            2. I always use tyvek to protect the sheathing. You could also do it the old way and use 15# tarpaper too.

            Comment

            • ironhat
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2004
              • 2553
              • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
              • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

              #7
              *Excellent*!!! Thanks for that info, Mike. I know the stuff now that you mention it. The foil seems to be an issue. I always thought the foil faced toward the interior. Others are telling me that's wrong. What's up with that? (and I promise I'll leave you alone).
              Chiz
              Blessings,
              Chiz

              Comment

              • Hellrazor
                Veteran Member
                • Dec 2003
                • 2091
                • Abyss, PA
                • Ridgid R4512

                #8
                I am going to really confuse you.. Tuff-R has foil on both sides

                Comment

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