Copper pipe joints with built-in solder

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • dlminehart
    Veteran Member
    • Jul 2003
    • 1829
    • San Jose, CA, USA.

    Copper pipe joints with built-in solder

    Anyone used those newfangled (to me) copper pipe joints that have a slight bulge containing solder, ready to seal the joint as soon as you heat it? While it seems convenient, I suspect that it doesn't really save that much time and effort and skill in making a joint, considering all the other prep work that has to happen anyway (cleaning, fluxing), and the ease of melting solder into a joint.
    - David

    “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” -- Oscar Wilde
  • beetee3
    Established Member
    • Feb 2005
    • 127
    • The Sunshine State

    #2
    Those fittings are/were very common in the UK 25+ years ago. You're right in thinking they don't save much in effort, but they do make it somewhat easier to make a neat looking joint without having solder dribbled all over. Since the solder ring is internal you always use just the right amount of solder - just heat the joint until the solder appears evenly around the edge of the fitting.

    Comment

    • Popeye
      Veteran Member
      • Mar 2003
      • 1848
      • Woodbine, Ga
      • Grizzly 1023SL

      #3
      That type fitting has been around for forever in heavy and bronz fittings it seems. Maybe not in lightweight copper for household use. One less hand in the way under the kitchen sink or tucked into the wall cavity to get in the way of the torch. Pat
      Woodworking is therapy.....some of us need more therapy than others. <ZERO>

      Comment

      • RayintheUK
        Veteran Member
        • Sep 2003
        • 1792
        • Crowborough, East Sussex, United Kingdom.
        • Ryobi BT3000

        #4
        Originally posted by dlminehart
        Anyone used those newfangled (to me) copper pipe joints that have a slight bulge containing solder?
        In the UK, these fittings are commonly known as "Yorkshires" and were - in my experience - tried by the pros, then discarded in favor of conventional (end-fill) connectors. They remain popular with the DIY, "weekend warrior" market here.

        As you point out, the copper pipe still needs cleaning and fluxing prior to soldering, so the only advantage is that, without a solder stick in one hand, they're slightly easier in some awkward locations, as Popeye mentions above.

        As far as overall costs go, if you need only one or two connectors, these could do. If you've got loads to do, however, then getting a reel of solder and end-fill connectors is cheaper (you'll need to get flux anyway).

        The downside in using this type of connector is that, if you heat the connector rather than the pipework, you can get the solder bubbling, which introduces air and ruins the joint. You don't get that problem end-feeding solder.

        I hate the things, but if I absolutely have to use them, I've always got my solder reel on hand, in case I don't get the flow I'm looking for. You have to rely on a perfect solder ring inside the connector, which is not always as reliable as you might think. There are different qualities of "Yorkshires" and the large DIY sheds (our equivalent to your HF or Lowes) tend to stock the cheapest of the cheap!

        Ray.
        Did I offend you? Click here.

        Comment

        • scorrpio
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 1566
          • Wayne, NJ, USA.

          #5
          In my recent heating system overhaul, I tried a couple of those (bought from HD) and immediately discarded in favor of regular ones. Maybe supply houses have higher quality, but those from HD are crap. And cost like twice more.

          And really you do not need torch and solder there at same time. Cut, ream, flux, assemble. Work the torch around, heating the FITTING. You don't heat the PIPE near it point of fitting entry - you heat the fitting in the sections that have pipe inside, cause that's where you want the solder - not all bunched up at the rim. It takes a little practice to develop a 'feel' for when it is hot enough. Then you remove the torch, briefly touch solder to the joint and it flows right in all around, forming a strong seal. Keeping the heat on while applying solder will only cause it to run and drip. While my left hand holds the solder to joint, my right sticks torch in the toolbelt pocket and grabs the wet rag used to wipe the joint clean.

          Some other pointers - for cleaning pipe, I found that emery mesh strip is much better and easier than an 'outside' wire brush. For flux, the 'green tin' kind is much better than 'red tin', and costs only a couple dollars more. Be sure to geta heat shield. I use tacks to pin it to the combustible surface near the pipe so I don't have to hold it. When soldering components like valves, wrapping a wet rag around valve body protects the inside gaskets. Try to assemble all pipes going into a fitting at once, so you can solder them all in one go and avoid heating that fitting again.

          Comment

          Working...