Spacing of deck boards

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  • Denco
    Guest
    • Mar 2003
    • 426
    • Coming soon: California
    • BT3100

    Spacing of deck boards

    Hey, All.

    I'm replacing the top boards on my deck. What is the proper spacing between boards? Is it 1/4"?

    I'm using red cedar.

    Thanks in advance for your reply. I appreciate it.--Den
    *****Measure twice, cut once.....rats, back to the lumber yard.*****
  • jAngiel
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2003
    • 561
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #2
    I'm no expert but I've always seen them use a nail as a spacer, so what is that, 1/8" or so. 1/4" seems too big to me. The only exception would be for pressure treated stuff that shrinks after installation, then I have always heard to use no spacing as the shrinking boards will create their own. I'm sure someone with specific red cedar experience will chime in shortly.
    James

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    • crokett
      The Full Monte
      • Jan 2003
      • 10627
      • Mebane, NC, USA.
      • Ryobi BT3000

      #3
      The answer is space them them so that when they dry and shrink you end up with the spacing you want. I've seen decks installed with spacing as wide as 1/4" but I think that is too much. I went for 1/8" on my deck.
      David

      The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

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      • JR
        The Full Monte
        • Feb 2004
        • 5633
        • Eugene, OR
        • BT3000

        #4
        A 16d nail is perfect for setting up the spacing. It's handy, can be tapped into the stringer for temporary alignment, and provides sufficient space for both expansion and shrinkage.

        JR
        JR

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        • Denco
          Guest
          • Mar 2003
          • 426
          • Coming soon: California
          • BT3100

          #5
          Thanks, All, for the advice. I was just reading through some old posts. I added a 6x12 section to the deck. I used screws with the joist hangers. Looks like I'll need to redo that with nails, huh?
          *****Measure twice, cut once.....rats, back to the lumber yard.*****

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          • jseklund
            Established Member
            • Aug 2006
            • 428

            #6
            I would just take some clamps, glue them all up like a table top, and lay them down

            Just kidding....I'm new to this, and it amazes me how you can make 50 pieces of wood come together as if they were one....so I am gluing up everything.

            I never heard that nail idea- but it sounds good! The shrinking has been a problem for me on the few decks I've worked on. This seems like a great solution.
            F#$@ no good piece of S#$% piece of #$@#% #@$#% #$@#$ wood! Dang. - Me woodworking

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            • JSUPreston
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2005
              • 1189
              • Montgomery, AL.
              • Delta 36-979 w/Biesemyere fence kit making it a 36-982. Previous saw was BT3100-1.

              #7
              Originally posted by Denco
              Thanks, All, for the advice. I was just reading through some old posts. I added a 6x12 section to the deck. I used screws with the joist hangers. Looks like I'll need to redo that with nails, huh?
              Depends on how much value you place on the deck and/or the safety of the folks on the deck.

              Screws are easy to do, especially with an 18v cordless, but they are too easy to snap, meaning that they shouldn't be used in the framing. However, they are perfect for hold the decking to the frame.
              "It's a dog eat dog world out there, and I'm wearing Milk-Bone underwear."- Norm (from Cheers)

              Eat beef-because the west wasn't won on salad.

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              • Denco
                Guest
                • Mar 2003
                • 426
                • Coming soon: California
                • BT3100

                #8
                Originally posted by JSUPreston
                Depends on how much value you place on the deck and/or the safety of the folks on the deck.

                Screws are easy to do, especially with an 18v cordless, but they are too easy to snap, meaning that they shouldn't be used in the framing. However, they are perfect for hold the decking to the frame.
                Yeah, I want to do this right, so I'm going to replace the screws with nails Fortunately, it's just on a small extension and there's not top boards on yet. The rest of the deck was done with nails. Thanks for saving me on this before it was too late.--Den
                *****Measure twice, cut once.....rats, back to the lumber yard.*****

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                • 91FE
                  Established Member
                  • Dec 2005
                  • 303
                  • Philadelphia (actually Souderton), PA.

                  #9
                  Went with 1/8" on mine (composite).
                  I like Wagoneers too. Hey...they've got wood

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                  • Hellrazor
                    Veteran Member
                    • Dec 2003
                    • 2091
                    • Abyss, PA
                    • Ridgid R4512

                    #10
                    It depends what you want. Use an 8d if you want small gaps and a 16D if you want larger gaps. PT wood will shrink as it dries and you will easily have 1/4" gaps.

                    As far as the screws, yuppers, remove and install joist nails.

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                    • Denco
                      Guest
                      • Mar 2003
                      • 426
                      • Coming soon: California
                      • BT3100

                      #11
                      Thanks for the good advice. I'm sure it saved me a lot of pain later. What's really cool is that LOML said she didn't want me wrecking my hands using a hammer (I have a little carpal tunnel thing), so she took me out and bought me a DeWalt framing nailer. I'm new to framing nailers, but the guy at Lowe's recommended this unit and it works great!!! Haven't had so much fun on a project in a long time. I was grateful to have it because I found rot on some of the cross beams and decided to replace a whole bunch of them. This made it much easier.
                      *****Measure twice, cut once.....rats, back to the lumber yard.*****

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                      • jAngiel
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2003
                        • 561
                        • Ryobi BT3100

                        #12
                        Hopefully the framing nailer has a positive placement tip. I know some of the Bostitch ones come with them, not so sure about Dewalt. From what have read you don't want to be using a regular framing nailer and trying to make it hit the nail holes in a joist hanger. It will either degrade the joist hanger or maybe jam up the framing nailer.

                        They make special nail guns just for joist hangers but some brands also make a postive placement tip that either comes with a nail gun or can be purchased separately.
                        James

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                        • Denco
                          Guest
                          • Mar 2003
                          • 426
                          • Coming soon: California
                          • BT3100

                          #13
                          Thanks. I'm not using the framer on the joist hangers. Just other areas.
                          *****Measure twice, cut once.....rats, back to the lumber yard.*****

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