Nail Gun + Joist Hanger = Bad Combo?

[Stytooner]

Guys that write the code have lots of stock in the short joist nail company.
I find it difficult to believe that a 3" deck screw has less strength than a 16d nail.
Thats for the beam side. These deck screws are hardened steel though. Stronger than sheet rock screws for sure, but could possibly snap easier in a major earth quake. In that case, I don't think nails will be much use either.

[91FE]

Screws through a hanger don't meet code, the manufacturer advises against it... and it's a generally bad idea. Just think... how many times have you snapped a screw vs. how many times have you snapped a nail?

Buy a palm nailer. There's nothing better for putting up hangers. I don't think brand/$ really matters on this tool. It's simple technology and they're all built the same way. I would have gone with the cheap one at Griz... but I needed it faster. Went to HF and got a kit for ~$50. I used it to put up 80 or so hangers on my deck. Worked like a champ.

[sacherjj]

The problem isn't the strength of a nail when pulling in with the threads. The problem is shearing off the head. I always use the short joist hanger nails when nailing into 2x material, but the longer ones for nailing on a 45 or into thicker boards.

[spazlab]

Guys that write the code have lots of stock in the short joist nail company.
I find it difficult to believe that a 3" deck screw has less strength than a 16d nail.
Thats for the beam side. These deck screws are hardened steel though. Stronger than sheet rock screws for sure, but could possibly snap easier in a major earth quake. In that case, I don't think nails will be much use either.

I would guess it must be a pretty serious and prevalent issue. My township is lax about everything in building code - the only statement they make when giving a deck permit is "do not use screws when hanging joists". And we don't get earthquakes. As for the strength of decking screws, I've sheared off the head of a number of SS decking screws in composite decking.

[Stytooner]

SS screws aren't as strong as some of the newer coating hardened steel screws used in decking. I have snapped heads off lesser screws as well. I understand why the code is that way and states nails. It's gotta be because the wrong screw for the job is just too readily available. Same goes for the wrong nail. I can't tell you how many times I've seen guys pounding in the little 8d sinkers for straping and hangers.
If you really want to quake proof or at least resist, then screws or lags would be the logical choice provided they were the correct type and had high shear strength.
I personally like to use cleats on the beam. These will outlast any galv. joist hangers on or around the beach.
Hurricane straps and hangers rust completely through in about 10 to 15 years when exposed like for a deck. They are most likely compromised well before that.
I do like to use the big galvanized nails when building down here though. The hot dipped seem to weld themselves to the wood once it's driven in. You play the Devil trying to get them back out. Not that I have to do that often, mind you.

[sacherjj]

I do like to use the big galvanized nails when building down here though. The hot dipped seem to weld themselves to the wood once it's driven in. You play the Devil trying to get them back out. Not that I have to do that often, mind you.

Ain't that the truth. It also helps to put them into wet treated lumber, which then drys out. I had a problem under my floor of the new shed I am building. Just getting the 8d hot dipped out were fun. Getting out 16d is really tough.

[Hellrazor]

Which palm nailer do you and Hellrazor use? Is the PC worth $80-90 more than the $20 Grizzly?

I have a Bostich PN100. I like that one because it includes all the tips I needed. It will do anything small like a joist hanger nail up to my favorite job for mine... driving ground rods in when doing electrical work.

[Hellrazor]

I just got through with a deck and got flamed when I considered using anything other than joist nails. I understand why you use 1.5 inch nails for the beam but a lot of hangers set the joist nail at a 45 degree angle and a hanger nail is too short to reach the beam. You would need a nail that was around 2.5" .Whats up with that?

I use 12-16d galv screw nails for those 2, otherwise you use joist hanger nails.


On edit...

Basicly screws may only be used to attach the decking to the joists, otherwise you must use nails for the framing. Which is no different then framing a house. Has anyone every used a framing screw gun? All this is done because someone, someplace used finish nails or a 1/2"self tap screw to put a joist hanger in place.

We have codes to protect us from other people who try to do things as cheaply as possible. We have engineers who dream up these codes because they didn't have anything better to do..

[Scottydont]

Which palm nailer do you and Hellrazor use? Is the PC worth $80-90 more than the $20 Grizzly?

To tell you the truth I don't remember what brand it was. I did by it at HD for about $45 bucks. I don't expect to build a house with it but it has made it through 3 decks and a 10X12 garden shed. My wife even likes to use it!


I really like the fact that you can drive any size nail from 6D to 16D.

[Jim Boyd]

Hmmm, I just used my fingers and a hammer

[JSUPreston]

Sorry to reopen old thread, but I thought I'd update my previous posting. I had my joist hanger jig loaned out (forgot that I'd done that), and I got it back this morning. It's a JoistMate hanger, and I found it on froogle: http://froogle.google.com/froogle?hl...te&sa=N&tab=wf

BTW: I bought mine locally a lot cheaper, and it worked fairly well for me. When I built a couple of decks back in '01, I did what a previous post suggested and used a scrap 2x. That didn't work as well for me as this little device.

[PALefty]

Replace particle board?

I've been making progress....the holes are dug, the footers are poured and the demolition is about finished. The only real 'fun' part was the demolition! Next step is to reinforce the interior of my house. The old deck was simply fastened to particle board on 24OC studs with a few nails. Did I mention this deck is 8' in the air? It is hard to believe it didn't collapse long ago. I believe I can reinforce the interior from the inside without too much problem.. but I was wondering if I should tear down the exterior particle board and replace with plywood anyway. I was also wondering if I should put some heavy plastic between the anchor board and house (in addition to the flashing)?

[Hellrazor]

I would get rid of the particle board and replace it will some exterior grade ply wood. Use tyvek for a barrier, unless you dont want to pay that much for a 3' roll, then I would use 30# tarpaper.

Since that deck is 8' up, did you check into cross bracing requirements?

[PALefty]

I would get rid of the particle board and replace it will some exterior grade ply wood. Use tyvek for a barrier, unless you dont want to pay that much for a 3' roll, then I would use 30# tarpaper.

Since that deck is 8' up, did you check into cross bracing requirements?

Wouldn't tyvek be to thick and interfere with my siding? I also wonder if it would compress on me?

I am following required plans w/ my association. It has some additional bracing under the deck.. if that is what you are referring to?

[Hellrazor]

15# tarpaper is thicker then tyvek. Tyvek is about the same thickness as the plastic used for vapor barriers.

Cross bracing would go across the posts below the joists.