Upgrading a shower faucet?

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  • cgallery
    Veteran Member
    • Sep 2004
    • 4503
    • Milwaukee, WI
    • BT3K
    #1

    Upgrading a shower faucet?

    I have a shower that is original to the house (50's?--I should really know this). I just got done replacing the washers in the shower faucet. The old ones were contributing to dripping.

    I was wondering, does anyone make any "kits" that would allow me to retrofit the existing hot and cold mechanisms of my faucet with some sort of washerless system? Something that wouldn't require much more disassembly than I had to do to replace the washer? Or am I totally dreaming?

    Thanks!
    Phil
    Tags: None
    • Pappy
      The Full Monte
      • Dec 2002
      • 10490
      • San Marcos, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 (x2)
      #2
      Doubtful you will be able to upgrade the existing unit. Your best bet would be to replace it.
      Don, aka Pappy,

      Wise men talk because they have something to say,
      Fools because they have to say something.
      Plato

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        • cgallery
          Veteran Member
          • Sep 2004
          • 4503
          • Milwaukee, WI
          • BT3K
          #3
          I just know this is going to turn into one of those "well, if you replace the faucet, looks like you'll have to re-tile." And then "As long as you're re-tiling, wouldn't a new deep tub be nice." And then "you know, you'll need a larger water heater to fill that big tub." Oh it goes on and on. I think I'll smear some Vasoline on the current stem to make it operate a little more smoothly and call it a day. :-)

          Thanks,
          Phil

            Comment

            • LJR
              Established Member
              • Jan 2005
              • 136
              • .
              #4
              cgallery, I'm with Pappy and really doubt that you'll find an upgrade kit that will fit the existing. A new shower valve assembly will have an anti'scald feature. If you buy a retrofit shower valve they will include a trim plate that will cover the existing hole so you don't have to retile.

                Comment

                • scorrpio
                  Veteran Member
                  • Dec 2005
                  • 1566
                  • Wayne, NJ, USA.
                  #5
                  When we moved into our current house, the valve that reroutes water from faucet to shower head was broken, I had to order a new one from Delta - paid $20 for it. In retrospective, I should have put that $20 towards a new faucet. These old faucets are leaky, hard to operate, and the mixer is totally whacked. Out of the entire 180 degree hot/cold sweep, there seem to be only 2-3 degrees where the water is actually MIXED. A hair to the left and and you get 100% hot, a hair to the right and you get 100% cold.

                  If your current installation is a single-handle escutcheon style, you should be able to replace the whole faucet with zero tile work. If it is the kind with two water valves and redirector sticking out of the wall, there should be an access hatch on the other side of the wall. In there is no hatch, it's bad news.

                    Comment

                    • JimD
                      Veteran Member
                      • Feb 2003
                      • 4187
                      • Lexington, SC.
                      #6
                      I agree with Scorrpio except I would add that it is easier to patch drywall than to replace tile. Even if you have to cut yourself some access, if you have a drywall wall on the other side of the shower, it could be a fairly simple task to replace the control. The steps would be something like:

                      1) Cut a hole big enough to access the valve and also the riser to the shower head, you will probably want to replace that too.

                      2) Now that you can see things, make sure you are up to the task. If everything is out in the open and you can solder (assuming copper pipe) confidently, proceed. If it is not something you are comfortable with or things are not where you were expecting, get some help or think about it some more before proceeding.

                      3) When ready, make sure you have everything you need or might need before you start. There are normally no shutoffs for showers so the water has to be off to the house until you get the new valve in.

                      4) Turn off the water, cut the old valve off and install the new. Make sure to remove the guts of the valve before any soldering. If your piping is plastic, it is easier. The one tricky thing is to make sure you really crank on the plastic pieces that screw into the valve. Do not worry about spitting them, they are pretty tough. If you do not crank hard enough, they will leak (I found this out the hard way).

                      5) When you get the valves back together you can turn the water back on and make sure no leaks.

                      6) Patch the drywall. I like setting compound that will dry in as little as an hour (the 30 minute type). It will allow you to do 3 coats in a day.

                      If you have no backside access, it is still not a terrible job but it is a gut job. I did the parsonage tub/shower at our old church in a long weekend once. You strip the walls, install the new valve, put up concrete board and re-tile. Come back the next day to grout. The first day is a long one but you should be able to get the tile up the first day if you do not have any large problems.

                      Jim

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