drilling the wife's precious door

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  • wreckwriter
    Established Member
    • Mar 2006
    • 449
    • South Florida
    • BT3100-1

    #1

    drilling the wife's precious door

    I have a solid wood back door with a window in it. I'm not sure what type wood it is but its a very nice door, my wife values it greatly.

    I need to protect that window before hurricane season starts so I have 2 custom storm panels for it. I will need to drill holes into the door and install brass 1/4-20 inserts to attach the panels.

    Any tips on drilling the door and getting the inserts in without messing it up would be appreciated!
    http://www.wreckwriter.com/
  • sacherjj
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 813
    • Indianapolis, IN, USA.
    • BT3100-1

    #2
    I usually like to drip holes for inserts with the drill press. It is also nice to chuck in a rod with the same thread to screw in the insert with the drill press. (By turning the chuck by hand, not with power!)

    You could perhaps do the same thing with the plunge attachments that you mount a hand drill in. That would allow a nice accurate installation. Here is the type of attachment I'm thinking of..
    Joe Sacher

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    • wreckwriter
      Established Member
      • Mar 2006
      • 449
      • South Florida
      • BT3100-1

      #3
      That's what I was thinking. I have one of those, haven't used it yet, maybe a good time to break it in. I haven't got a press and would vastly prefer to not remove the door.
      http://www.wreckwriter.com/

      Comment

      • wreckwriter
        Established Member
        • Mar 2006
        • 449
        • South Florida
        • BT3100-1

        #4
        What type of bit would be best for these holes? My drill guide has only a 1/4 chuck so I have to buy a cut-down shank bit anyway, might as well get best kind. I was thinking a brad-point bit would be probably best?
        http://www.wreckwriter.com/

        Comment

        • LarryG
          The Full Monte
          • May 2004
          • 6693
          • Off The Back
          • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

          #5
          1/4-20 inserts so you'd need a 3/8" hole, right? That's typical, but may vary, so check to be sure. If 3/8" is right, a Forstner bit will give the very best results and should fit your 1/4" chuck (I know Freud's will). A 3/8" Freud Forstner will cost you around $8-10 at HD or Lowe's. Not cheap, but look at this job as an opportunity to start your collection.

          A good brad point bit would be almost as good. After that, a good ordinary HSS twist drill bit. IOW, I'd use a good twist bit before I'd use a cheapo brad point.
          Larry

          Comment

          • wreckwriter
            Established Member
            • Mar 2006
            • 449
            • South Florida
            • BT3100-1

            #6
            Originally posted by LarryG
            1/4-20 inserts so you'd need a 3/8" hole, right? That's typical, but may vary, so check to be sure. If 3/8" is right, a Forstner bit will give the very best results and should fit your 1/4" chuck (I know Freud's will). A 3/8" Freud Forstner will cost you around $8-10 at HD or Lowe's. Not cheap, but look at this job as an opportunity to start your collection.

            A good brad point bit would be almost as good. After that, a good ordinary HSS twist drill bit. IOW, I'd use a good twist bit before I'd use a cheapo brad point.
            Yea, 3/8 is right.

            I have a set of Forstners, Porter Cable brand, that I got on sale. Not sure of the shank size but could be 1/4". I considered using that but was afraid of getting the hole not exactly where I want it since I'll be using this drill guide gadget held horizontally against the door (removing the door is a problem due to pets, yea I could block it somehow but seems a lot of trouble for 10 little holes..). With the brad point I have a better means of centering it.
            http://www.wreckwriter.com/

            Comment

            • LarryG
              The Full Monte
              • May 2004
              • 6693
              • Off The Back
              • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

              #7
              Originally posted by wreckwriter
              With the brad point I have a better means of centering it.
              Because the shaft size is constant, where it passes thru the guide? If so, yes, in that case the brad point would be better.

              When you do your layout, stick a small square of blue painter's tape at each hole location, to help prevent splintering. And center-punch before you drill, obviously.
              Larry

              Comment

              • wreckwriter
                Established Member
                • Mar 2006
                • 449
                • South Florida
                • BT3100-1

                #8
                Originally posted by LarryG
                Because the shaft size is constant, where it passes thru the guide? If so, yes, in that case the brad point would be better.

                When you do your layout, stick a small square of blue painter's tape at each hole location, to help prevent splintering. And center-punch before you drill, obviously.
                Because the forstner bit doesn't have a point to hit my punch mark, I would have to almost guess at centering it it seems and I couldn't be certain of my stability in holding the guide totally steady.
                http://www.wreckwriter.com/

                Comment

                • LarryG
                  The Full Monte
                  • May 2004
                  • 6693
                  • Off The Back
                  • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

                  #9
                  Originally posted by wreckwriter
                  Because the forstner bit doesn't have a point to hit my punch mark
                  Oh. All of mine do (Freud, and cheapies from HF). I thought all Forstner bits had centerpoints.
                  Larry

                  Comment

                  • wreckwriter
                    Established Member
                    • Mar 2006
                    • 449
                    • South Florida
                    • BT3100-1

                    #10
                    Originally posted by LarryG
                    Oh. All of mine do (Freud, and cheapies from HF). I thought all Forstner bits had centerpoints.
                    I don't think they do..... obviously I need to check. Thanks much!
                    http://www.wreckwriter.com/

                    Comment

                    • meika123
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 887
                      • Advance, NC, USA.
                      • BT3000

                      #11
                      All mine have a centerpoint, even the cheapo's.

                      Dave in NC
                      Stress is when you wake up screaming and then you realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.

                      Comment

                      • wreckwriter
                        Established Member
                        • Mar 2006
                        • 449
                        • South Florida
                        • BT3100-1

                        #12
                        Originally posted by meika123
                        All mine have a centerpoint, even the cheapo's.

                        Dave in NC
                        Turns out mine do too. went to HD and looked at same set- centerpoints... That's what I'll be using. Thanks for the help.
                        http://www.wreckwriter.com/

                        Comment

                        • scorrpio
                          Veteran Member
                          • Dec 2005
                          • 1566
                          • Wayne, NJ, USA.

                          #13
                          Those inserts are fairly short. Did you consider using a plunge router with a 3/8" straight bit instead?

                          Comment

                          • wreckwriter
                            Established Member
                            • Mar 2006
                            • 449
                            • South Florida
                            • BT3100-1

                            #14
                            Originally posted by scorrpio
                            Those inserts are fairly short. Did you consider using a plunge router with a 3/8" straight bit instead?
                            The hole needs to be 1 1/4" deep to accomodate the sidewalk bolt.
                            http://www.wreckwriter.com/

                            Comment

                            • scorrpio
                              Veteran Member
                              • Dec 2005
                              • 1566
                              • Wayne, NJ, USA.

                              #15
                              Most straight bits are 1" long, though you can get longer ones - or a spiral cutter. Even if only 3/4" - 1" long, plunge router will give you a very nice , clean, and square to the door hole. Then, you can chuck whatever bit in the drill, and deepen the hole as needed.

                              Comment

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