Tile Grout Questions

[Ej101]

I have these 4 X 8 subway type tiles i am going to install on my bathroom wall (shower wall). My wife wants no spaces between them which leaves 1/32" for grout. The grout wouldn't even go all the way through, the tiles butt right up against each other 1/32" down fron the face. I am going to use non sanded grout. Is this little of a space asking for trouble with water seeping through? Should i try to at least have a 1/16 joint so the grout will go all the way to the adhesive/thinset?

Thanks,
-Eric

[just4funsies]

You're putting a lot of faith in a tiny amount of material adhering to a very smooth finish. And the steam and temperature changes will make things that much tougher. I'd look for an adhesive caulk, or something like that.

[Raffi]

Eric,

I wouldnt worry about the grout joint...did you try using very thin grout? How about adding an acrylic admix to your grout...sanded might be a better choice...

My 2cents.

Raffi

[greencat]

I'm not an expert but I know you don't want to use sand. Sand is only for large joints. I would go with the caulk. A lot easier to put on and a lot more flexible.

I used caulk on our kitchen tile between the counter and the first row of tiles. This was recommended by the tile shop. For a normal size joint it is too expensive to use for the whole job.

[Raffi]

http://www.thetiledoctor.com/installations/grouts.cfm

[JimD]

I have the same tile in the tub surround in our guest bathroom. It is installed butted as tightly together as the nibs on the tile allow. That is the way wall tile is meant to be installed. Unsanded grout is the only thing to use except in the corners and along the bottom where the tile should be about 1/8 off the tub. In these locations there will be movement and you should use silicone caulk color matched to the grout. The tile should be installed over concrete backer board. If a little water gets through, it makes little difference since the concrete board doesn't care. I use latex modified thinset for installation - use the thinset with latex already in it (dry). I pay about $25 for 50 lbs at Lowe's. Wall tile is also easy to cut. Floor tile takes forever to cut with a rod saw (fits into a hacksaw frame) but on wall tile it works OK for curved cuts. Or you can nibble them. I like a right angle grinder with a masonary blade for L-shaped cuts and a "cracker" for straight cuts. If this is the only tile work you will do, you can get by without the cracker.

I mixed in a row of colored tiles near the top just to jaz it up a little. They cost a lot more on a per piece basis but when it is only a row, the total cost doesn't change all that much. I would take LOML shoping and see what she comes up with. By using the large tile for most of the job, your cost will still be pretty low.

Jim

[Santa Clarita Len]

Epoxy Grout

On my kitchen floor with 1/8 inch spacing I used epoxy grout that I had Home Depot order from one of their regular suppliers and it is absolutely fantastic, It is designed for commercial applications and HD didn't even know it existed until I showed them the Internet write-up. Also, as previously stated, do not use sanded grout.