Installing tall cabinets

[kmk]

Never installed tall cabinets before. So, looking for suggestions or best methods to install tall (96") cabinets and fluted fillers(6" wide).

These cabinets will have drywall backing on 3 sides. And, the fluted fillers (6" wide 3/4" thick, 96" tall) need to be installed by the wall and between the cabinets.

The ceiling is 108" high and the floor is prefinished hardwood floor. The floor is level. Havent checked the walls yet.

Thanks!

[kmk]

It looks like installing the cabinets should be strarightforward. Place them (with toe kick) side by side over the installation area and first screw (faceframe) them together. Then screw them to the studs at the bottom (toe kick) and at the top (back side). But, not sure how to go about installing the fluted filler...

[RayintheUK]

Let's hope that your walls on either side of the cabinets are plumb, otherwise the fluting will emphasise the run-out. I'd check if any scribing is required (you could measure then rip a scrap piece and offer it up to check first), then either screw through the sides directly into the fillers, or if hinge placements prevent that, fix a batten onto the rear of the fillers, then screw through the sides into that. This will prevent any holes in the facing of the fillers and allow for easy removal if required.

Ray.

[kmk]

Thanks! These are all bookshelf units so no hinges. I'm thinking of using screws behind the stiles. So, they can be hidden.

I was wondering whether I should nail few small strips (along the wall) to the studs and screw the batten to those strips as well for more stability?

BTW: I've scribe molding also so I could use them to hide any run-out?

[RayintheUK]

Another way would be to dowel or biscuit the fluted molding onto a batten which would be screwed onto the outside of the unit. Assemble dry, check the fit, screw on the batten, then glue the molding to the batten from the front. It can't hurt to have additional support at the wall in case of anyone accidentally putting pressure on the molding, but as long as it's tight behind the molding, I don't see any need to fix to it.

In this diagram, plan view of RHS, "A" is the unit side, "B" is the molding and "C" the batten. Arrows show direction of screws. HTH



Ray.

[kmk]

Sounds good!! I don't have a means to make dowel or biscut joint but I think I can borrow the biscut jointer from someone. I will give this one a day but it is going to be few days later. I will post the results here...

[JimD]

I am having trouble picturing where the fluted moulding goes, behind the cabinets are flush with the front. I will presume the latter. I have cabinets on either side of my fireplace with fluted moulding on the edges of the base units. I sits about 3 inches in front of the cabinet doors. The moulding is fastened with trim head screws (they have little heads so you can fill the hole with putty) to the edge of the cabinet. The moulding is painted. It just butts against the walls and is caulked where it meets the wall.

Jim

[kmk]

Ok. Picture is attached. Again note that the fillers are 3/4" thick. They are not columns (which might make the installation easier?).

[kmk]

BTW I'm using pre-finished materials so they need to fit tightly. painting and caulking are not options.