Car Siding Q.

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • da_biv
    Forum Newbie
    • Apr 2005
    • 20
    • Indpls. Ind.

    #1

    Car Siding Q.

    Hello, My Daughter has ask me to install vertical car siding in a new room addition that adjoins her bdrm, which is done in vertical car siding.
    My question is should I install horizontal blocking one third of the way down from the top plate and one third of the way up from the bottom plate for nailers ? Seems like the correct way to do it. Any thoughts or suggestions would be we appreciated.
  • 91FE
    Established Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 303
    • Philadelphia (actually Souderton), PA.

    #2
    "Car siding"... like T1-11? Really think you'd need blocking? I'd think you could get away with just nailing into the studs?
    I like Wagoneers too. Hey...they've got wood

    Comment

    • crokett
      The Full Monte
      • Jan 2003
      • 10627
      • Mebane, NC, USA.
      • Ryobi BT3000

      #3
      Are you tallking about box car siding? The tounge n groove planking? Or T1-11? If T1-11 no blocking. If toung n groove installed veritically, then yes you would need blocking but I think I'd make the blocking 16" on center, as the studs in the walls are.
      David

      The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

      Comment

      • monte
        ***** Windbag
        • Dec 2002
        • 5242
        • Paw Paw, MI, USA.
        • GI 50-185M

        #4
        Go for the blocking between the studs.
        Monte (another darksider)
        Reporting Live from somewhere near Kalamazoo

        http://community.webshots.com/user/monte49002

        Comment

        • LarryG
          The Full Monte
          • May 2004
          • 6693
          • Off The Back
          • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

          #5
          Or use furring strips.

          If you can stand to lose a small amount of space in the room, 1x3 furring applied horizontally over the face of the studs at 16" OC will be easier to do than blocking. Main downside is that this will require wider door and window jambs.
          Larry

          Comment

          • crokett
            The Full Monte
            • Jan 2003
            • 10627
            • Mebane, NC, USA.
            • Ryobi BT3000

            #6
            I thought about firring strips too. But in addition to wider door/window jambs, electric boxes will have to be either moved or an extension added.
            David

            The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

            Comment

            • LarryG
              The Full Monte
              • May 2004
              • 6693
              • Off The Back
              • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

              #7
              Originally posted by crokett
              electric boxes will have to be either moved or an extension added.
              True enough, if they're already installed. He said it's an addition, but didn't specify how far along it is.

              I still think I might do the furring strips, though, were it mine; moving a few already-installed electrical boxes would be a heckuva lot easier than cutting and toenailing all that blocking!

              Main point you and I are both making is that if the siding is indeed individual boards, it needs to be supported at not more than 24" OC and preferable 16".
              Larry

              Comment

              • da_biv
                Forum Newbie
                • Apr 2005
                • 20
                • Indpls. Ind.

                #8
                Thank each and everyone of you for sharing your knowledge and suggestions. Plus taking the time to reply.
                Thanks Again...da_biv

                Comment

                Working...