Cracked Plaster ceiling - patch or paint over?

[RyFitz13]

Well, as the subject suggests, I've got a section of ceiling above my staircase that's cracking in several spots. I can't tell how deep the cracks are, but they all appear to be hairline cracks and no loose material is coming away from them.

To complicate matters, the ceiling is entirely at the second floor ceiling height, with the stairs dropping away below it. I can reach the ceiling using a carefully placed ladder, but want to avoid as much work up there as I can.

So, is there any general advice or rules of thumb when dealing with a ceiling in this condition? The cracks are such that I think a coat or two of ceiling paint would sufficiently cover them up. Is this advisable, or should I skim coat over the cracks (I'd probably just scrape / sand away the texture, tape and mud, then reapply texture) before painting?

I've considered slapping up some 1/4 or 3/8 drywall as a new ceiling surface, but I'd run into trouble with moulding and door-fram clearance at the top of the staircase.

Thanks in advance!

[Tequila]

The tip I got on patching hairline crachs was to run a can opener along the crack to make it bigger. That will give you a v-shaped groove and remove any lose plaster. You can then patch it with a lightweight drywall patch - it usually takes me 2 or 3 coats to get it to look good.

I've used that tip in dozens of places in my 200 year old house, and usually a couple coats of paint not only make the crack diappear, but I have yet to see one reopen after 3 years.

[kramer katt]

Been in this house 22 years. it has plaster walls and ceilings.
Settling and Calif earthquakes is not kind to the plaster.
I've patched ceiling cracks successfully with the can opener trick and then fiberglass tape. May take two coats of plaster or mud to cover and blend out high spot but cracks don't re-appear. At least in same place.
Make sure tape is only one thickness, dont overlap at all. Sand between layers. You might want to invest in one of those adjustable ladders as this is a several day process since your over the stairs.
There is also a premix patch called FLEXALL by Custom that has worked well without the tape. With this though you need to dig out the cracks more and it is difficult to sand. It's advantage is that it really adhears to the old and it stays a little flexible.
On any of these, one or two coats of good primer are needed before you repaint or the patches show through.
kk

[scorrpio]

Does your house have 2 floors total? If so, you should go into attic and examine that ceiling section from above - to determine if there is something there causing those cracks - like moisture accumulating in the insulation.

Whatever work you do from below is not going to last unless you remove the possible cause from above.

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by scorrpio

Whatever work you do from below is not going to last unless you remove the possible cause from above.

Investigating problems is always wise but the most common cause of plaster cracks in older houses, by far, is the structure settling as it ages. This is typically due to inadequate foundations, undersized scantlings, or both. Not a lot that can be done about either short of major surgery.

As long as the cracks are minor and cosmetic, the usual solution is to patch them and wait another ten to fifty years until they show up again.

[RyFitz13]

Thanks guys - I'll try out the can opener trick and get the cracks patched that way... Guess I'll learn about the wonders of ceiling re-texturing while I'm at it!

[RyFitz13]

Hey guys, just a follow-up thanks to everyone for their advice on this one.

LOML was recently out of town for a week or so, leaving me a pair of weekends to complete the messiest parts of the job. I spent about 3 hours digging out those cracks with an old can opener as suggested by Tequila, and was able to tape and apply 3 layers of mud to each. This reminded me just how much I hate working above my head - I was sore for days! However, the walls and ceiling look almost new now - all that's left is for LOML to pick her colors, and we can get some paint on the walls and ceiling, hiding my patches!

Thanks again to all, this job wouldn't have come out nearly so well without your advice!

[Stormbringer]

Ryfitz,

Don't know if it was mentioned already but don't forget to try to use flat paint (especially the ceiling). It is the absolute best when it comes to hiding imperfections. You would be suprised to see what shows up after you thought you had everything sanded perfect.

Good luck.

[RyFitz13]

On some level I had thought about that, but then promptly forgot. Thanks for the reminder.

Now - if I use a flat paint for the ceiling, what should I use for the wall? I was thinking eggshell, but if flat looks and works OK on walls, it'd be easier since I plan to paint both the same color.

On the flipside, if I'm using texture (looking at a package of texturing material to add to the paint) would it be safe to go with textured eggshell on the ceiling, or is flat still the way to go?

[scorrpio]

This will probably put a scare in you, but I gotta relate my recent experience.

In my recently bought house(built in late 1940s), we have a small guest bedroom on the first floor, which is presently uninhabited and is awaiting a complete refinish. It also had hairline cracks in the ceiling. I was not sure what to do about them - patch em up or replace whole thing with new drywall.

A couple days ago, I was reframing the closets in upstairs bedroom. As I was hammering in some nails, about half of that cracked ceiling in the first floor bedroom came crashing down - thankfully, the only victims being various building materials presently stored there. Upon closer examination, it appears that portions of plaster wedged in lath were cracked from the rest, leaving main portion of plaster unsupported. When I was redoing the upstairs floor, there were a couple places I could reachg in between joists, and feel the ceiling lath of the room below, and plaster wedged in. Some of it was still holding, but some I could just pick up.

Needless to say, I will be taking it all off and putting up drywall now.