I had a long weekend so right after Christmas dinner, I started the
Family Handyman wainscot dining room. The key was to not spend as
much as they did in the magazine (I think $500 or so). I used long
poplar boards for the baseboard along the bottom (thanks to member
"vanguard" for the use of his planer) rather than splicing shorter
boards together. I would have saved some money if I had done the
splicing but my normal lumber guy had nothing over 8'. Everything
above the base is MDF. First thing I had to do was frame the window
with new trim. Then create the "Princeton stop molding". I had no
idea what that was so I routed a 3/8" ogee profile and tacked it next
to the window trim. I pretty much followed the instructions in the
magazine. Getting the stiles to avoid the wall outlets was the
hardest part. Anyway, here are some before and after pictures.
Things to do: apply cove molding under cap molding, smooth out
texture in current "wall panels" with joint compound, make quarter
round molding for panels, and paint.
Paul




Family Handyman wainscot dining room. The key was to not spend as
much as they did in the magazine (I think $500 or so). I used long
poplar boards for the baseboard along the bottom (thanks to member
"vanguard" for the use of his planer) rather than splicing shorter
boards together. I would have saved some money if I had done the
splicing but my normal lumber guy had nothing over 8'. Everything
above the base is MDF. First thing I had to do was frame the window
with new trim. Then create the "Princeton stop molding". I had no
idea what that was so I routed a 3/8" ogee profile and tacked it next
to the window trim. I pretty much followed the instructions in the
magazine. Getting the stiles to avoid the wall outlets was the
hardest part. Anyway, here are some before and after pictures.
Things to do: apply cove molding under cap molding, smooth out
texture in current "wall panels" with joint compound, make quarter
round molding for panels, and paint.
Paul


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