Resawing Veneers

[boblon]

I am collecting the pieces parts to try my hand at vacuum pressing. The first projects (when I get that far) will be small.

David Marks tends to resaw his veneer at 3/32" and then sand to 1/16".

My understanding is that thin veneer not only stretches valuable figured wood, but more importantly avoids stability issues with the veneer expanding/contracting causing problems.

So, my question is, what is the practical limit on veneer thickness? In other words can I make it 1/8" finished thickness without problems, or is that pushing it? And is this thickness dependant at all on the size and or shape (curved/flat) of the project being veneered?

Oh, one more question for those who veneer. After resawing would it be better to glue the flat side to the substrate BEFORE sending it through the drum sander or go ahead and just send the veneer through the sander before glue-up.

Thanks for any input on this subject.
BobL.

[boblon]

While researching this on the web I ran across this. MORE than you EVER wanted to know about the science behind gluing wood.

http://www.rmmn.org/documnts/pdf1991/river91a.pdf

Wow

BobL.

[Pappy]

Did you find your answer? I haven't done any veneer work but, from what I have seen, the material should be sanded on both sides before glue up.

[boblon]

No, nothing definative. From what I gather 1/8" is max but not recommended.

BobL.

[BrazosJake]

Bob,

I've done 1/16" veneers, not a whole bunch, but 6 months later the panel I veneered (3/4" birch/maple plywood substrate w figured birch veneer) is still looking good. I used Titebond cold press glue with LOTS of cauls and clamps and laminated both sides of the panel.

I, too, got the idea from watching David Marks and I had it in my head he was thicknessing the veneers on a planer, but I guess it was a drum sander. I tried this on my Ridgid planer by sticky-taping the veneers to an mdf sled and it ate some of them. I altered my technique by jointing the board slightly between cutting each veneer, and jointing/laminating by gluing the flat side, then running the laminated panel through the thickness planer to get the veneers all the same thickness.

BTW, don't waste any money on special veneer glue or veneer tape for jointing 1/16" veneers, they can be jointed fine with nothing but masking tape and PVA glue, as I'm sure you've seen David Marks do it. The special tape & glue are for commercial veneers which are 1/42" thick.

Also, dunno how you do it with a vaccum press, but first time I did a panel, I put glue on the veneer as well as the substrate and the veneer started curling right away and popped a joint. Fortunately, that was a test run, so lesson learned, now I apply glue to substrate only and get tape and clamps on the veneer as soon as its in contact with the glue.

[boblon]

James,
Thanks for the input. I do have a drum sander so that will not be an issue. I have been looking at the different glues available and have not decided how specialized I need to be on that front so I appreciate your comments on that as well.

From what I've read one of the reasons to use a glue other than PVA is for a more rigid glue line when making shaped parts. Don't know how critical this is as I have yet to make anything yet.

I have the vacuum part of the project done, now to work on making myself the bag. I don't want to spend the money for a proper (and pre-made) vacuum bag but I have this funny feeling this is going to be one of those projects where I 'experiment' enough that I could have just bought the darn bag, but, I must do what I must do I guess.

I'm not sure, but it seems I've seen David Marks use both some form of yellow glue and some brown stuff, I'm guessing urea formaldehyde glue. Will have to review my recordings.

Anyhow, thanks for the info.
BobL.

[tmaceroli]

I think the most recent issue of American Woodworker has a project that also happens to be made with veneers, and they go through the process of making, jointing and edge bonding (who knew you could join something that thin!), and gluing to the backing material. Good luck!

Tony

[boblon]

Great Tony.

I don't get that mag regularly, but will go pick up a copy.

Thanks much for the info.

BobL.

[tmaceroli]

Bob,

I am terribly sorry, but I made a mistake on the magazine. It was Woodworkers Journal. I don't get American Woodworker either, so I'm at a loss to understand why I would remember it being in that magazine. I have to try to remember to never go by memory[:I].

I hope you didn't buy it yet.

Tony

[boblon]

LOL--No problem Tony. Didn't buy that other one yet, but not sure where to get Woodworkers Journal locally (of if it's even available without a subscription).

Appreciate the correction.

BobL.

[tmaceroli]

If you're interested, you can send me your address via email. I will mail you mine. tmaceroli@hotmail.com

Tony

[boblon]

Wow Tony, that is quite the offer. I will send you some e-mail.

Anything I can do for you in return?

BobL.

[tmaceroli]

The least I could do for potentially sending you on a wild goose chase.

Just let us all know how you make out in your quest to start making your own veneers. It adds to the collective confidence of the group to know that these things are possible for the rest of us.

Regards,
Tony

I will be on the lookout for your email.

[boblon]

Tony, you should have gotten the e-mail by now, I sent it the same time I posted. ???

BobL.