Another Newbie

[eglosenger]

The last time I really used a table saw was almost 20 years ago in high school. It was a great Delta cabinet saw, and I have planned on getting a Delta until I came across the BT3100. I have been doing a lot of reading and comparing and finally decided on the BT3100. I could not find even a used saw that would do for me what the BT3100 would for the price. I picked it up last night and only got to the point of pulling out the dvd and manual. The first thing I will do when I put this saw together on Sunday is paint the red line. Thank you for all of the info and I look forward to showing off any projects that turn out well.

[gmack5]

Welcome Ed,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding proceedure, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll take keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw. Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.
Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.
Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[Stan]

Welcome aboard Ed, keep us up to date on the upcoming projects.

[monte]

Welcome to the group Ed! Enjoy your new saw!

[Pappy]

Welcome to the Asylum, Ed!

[Mainemarc]

Hi Ed:

Welcome to the forum! Two common bugbears that seem to crop up when assembling the BT3100: The throat plate screw and the eccentric screws for adjusting the sliding miter table.

The throat plate screw is a steel fastener set in aluminum threads: it tends to seize. Liberal amounts of WD-40, a *well-fitting* phillips-head screwdriver, and a few judicious raps with a mallet go a long way to avoid the dreaded stripped screw head scenario.

If (and only if) you need to adjust the sliding miter table for squareness, there are four screws on the underside: 3 are black and one is silver. The silver screw is the pivot point for adjustments and should be left alone. Be careful tightening the other 3 after making any adjustments; they are eccentric screws that are a little fragile, and folks have damaged them by over-tighening.

[Ken Weaver]

Welcome aboard Ed. Have fun and be safe!

[bigstick509]

Welcome to the best forums on the Net.

[Napoleon]

Welcome Ed...I'm sure you'll find this is the nicest bunch of people around. Always ready to lend an ear and to give any advice and encouragement you may need.
Be safe and have fun

Mark

[rg32]

Hi Ed
You have yourself a great saw.
20 years was about the same for me too....
The last table saw I used was one with a tilting table.
There's a hole bunch of knowledge here and everybody is just great.
If have any questions just ask!

[SHADOWFOX]

Welcome aboard, Ed! A group of classy individuals in this site. Have fun and be safe with your new saw!

[John Hunter]

Welcome aboard Ed!

[eglosenger]

Thank you all for such a warm welcome!!
I have watched the DVD a couple of times and read through the manual. Now if it's not too unbearably hot tomorow (supposed to be in the 90's) I can put the saw together. I think the next major purchase for the garage will be a good sized A/C.

[GeekMom]

Welcome, Ed.