Wood types - pros and cons, including cost

[kliu]

Is there any sites to get a general pros and cons on the different woods?
It would be great for a newbie, like myself.
Or maybe we could start one here...

I was thinking something like this:

Wood Type | Cost Range | Pros | Cons
Particle Bd
MDF
Oak
Maple

[jfinke]

I am pretty much a beginner as well. The site that I use quite a bit to evaluate and see pictures of wood is http://www.woodworkerssource.net/index.php. They give pictures and uses and characteristics of most woods that my local shop sells.

I hope this helps..

[Pappy]

try http://www.hardwoodcouncil.com/ for info on American woods.

[JimD]

Another thing to recognize is that the main reason many of us use the materials we use is questions of cost and appearance, not suitability. My bedroom set is made of red oak, for instance, because I like the looks of red oak and cherry was about twice as expensive. If cherry was the same price as red oak, I would have probably used that. Maple would have worked but I would not have liked the appearance. Most of the time there are several reasonable ways to go and you can decide between your wallet and what you think looks best.

Jim

[kliu]

Right!
That's why I stressed "including cost"
I think for newbies, the cost is a huge concern because of the larger "trial-and-error" we go through.

[DaveW]

I'd say that cost varies greatly depending on what grows locally in your area...

Also, if you're buying s4s stuff, I've noticed that the HD/Lowes will likely have cheaper prices than lumber places like Ganahl. Of course, if you had a jointer and planer, you can get rough wood for a lot cheaper.

[HarmsWay]

For hardwoods, I'll second Pappy's recommended link. It's an excellent hardwood resource.

It's not as easy as you may think to create something that would be a useful comparison though. While the engineering and aesthetic properties of real wood (as opposed to man-made) can be described in general terms, you can't get very specific. There is just too much variation. The same can be said about price. What is cheap and readily available in one part of the country (or world) may be an exotic variety in another. For example, there was a discussion here on Ipe as a deck surface. In the US especially southern US, Ipe is readily available and although expensive it's a reasonable cost for a long term deck solution. On the other hand, Ipe is not even allowed in Canada unless it's certified kiln dried in the US and has been machined into a profile (such as tongue and groove).

It's much easier to compare man-made wood products: plywood, particle board, MDF, etc. and I'd be surprised if something didn't exist online already.

Jim, WRT to alternatives to cherry, next time consider pacific maple. It's not as dense or as dark as typical cherry but the colouring is very similar. With an easy stain, it can pass for cherry at a fraction of the cost (where I live anyway).

Bob

[Armini]

quote:Originally posted by HarmsWay

For hardwoods, I'll second Pappy's recommended link. It's an excellent hardwood resource.

What is cheap and readily available in one part of the country (or world) may be an exotic variety in another. For example, there was a discussion here on Ipe as a deck surface.

That is pretty much exactly it - here in Ontario, about the cheapest hardwood I can reliably buy is hard maple, though I can sometimes get birch and ash cheaper. Hickory, by contrast, is 3 to 4 times as expensive.

quote:In the US especially southern US, Ipe is readily available and although expensive it's a reasonable cost for a long term deck solution. On the other hand, Ipe is not even allowed in Canada unless it's certified kiln dried in the US and has been machined into a profile (such as tongue and groove).

I had never heard this. Any idea why Ipe is not allowed in?

[HarmsWay]

quote:Originally posted by Armini
I had never heard this. Any idea why Ipe is not allowed in?

This is what my local wood supplier says:

"currently on the CFIA “hit” list as potentially harbouring dangerous bugs"

He implies that the Canadian Food Inspection Agency's claims are unjustified. I couldn't find any reference to it on the CFIA website.

Bob

[BrazosJake]

Welcome to the slippery slope:-)

Some other resources: www.woodweb.com, www.woodbin.com.

Woodbin has a wood selector where you enter the properties you want and it gives you a ranking.

Starting out, I thought I'd never buy hardwoods, just too expensive. Now, I can't imagine using MDF and plywood as anything but jigs.

It's easy to get discouraged looking at the outrageous prices Home Depot charges for so-so hardwoods. I pulled out the phonebook and started calling, and asking questions out here. Now I've got about 500 bf of various hardwoods in my garage, and my next major tool purchase will probably be some sort of portable sawmill (my Ridgid BS does the job now, but feeding an 8' x 8" diameter log is not my idea of fun). I believe about the most I've paid for hardwood was $4.20 pbf for purpleheart. A lot was free from Lumber Liquidators, but it is rough and dirty, and trying to work Jatoba or similar tropical HWs might turn you off, the stuff is hard as bricks and dulls cutting edges fast.

I've been using 4/4 s2s ash purchased as shorts or #1 common for shop projects. It runs $1.40 pbf locally. I see lots of guys on various WW forums moan about how they want to build a traditional WW bench, but the top is just too expensive or they don't trust their skills with hardwood or say the'll pay $200 or more for one from WoodCraft or Grizzly because it's cheaper than making their own. Well, a traditional bench top of 5' x 2' x 2" thick represents only 20 bf of wood. Made from 4/4 stock, it will be less-expensive and more stable and you're talking about $35-$40 using the Ash described able. Upgrade to maple (around here, at least) and it's up to $70-80. I don't know why anyone thinks they're going to be able to make fine furniture if they're afraid to try a workbench that nobody but they have to look at.