You've convinced another one

[LYU370]

Well, I've been lurking around here for quite some time, and I think I've caught the woodworking bug again after many a year. Yes, you all have convinced me to get the BT3100. Just have to figure out what kind of shop table to build. I figure that's a good first project to start with. Going to be in a one car garage, so I'm thinking of a fold down/up one that I can put in the corner and keep the TS there when not in use.

Why is it that all my hobbies tend to be expensive, golf, computers, now woodworking. Can never seem to pick a cheap hobby. [] But it sure is fun buying the toys!! I mean precision equipment.

[gmack5]

Welcome Andy,


Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding proceedure, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll take keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw. Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.
Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.
Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[Roger109]

As the LOML says,the difference between men and boys is the price of the toys!Welcome Andy

[monte]

Welcome to the group Andy!

[ChrisD]

Welcome to the forum, Andy!

[GeekMom]

Welcome, Andy! This is a great group.

[John Hunter]

Welcome aboard Andy.

[Ken Weaver]

Welcome Andy - tell the LOYL that with this hobby there'll something to show for it (don't point to the tools and shop cabinets but the toilet paper holder and other useful things you're going to build)!!!

[lcm1947]

Yes welcome and if you've been dropping in on occasion you already know that this is a great forum and everybody is extremely helpful. Looking forward to seeing you around. And like I keep telling myself - it's just money. Hehe.

[Pop Paw]

Welcome...I work in a one car garage too...my out feed table is on wheels and is square so I can use it for other things when not in use.

[Pappy]

Welcome to the Asylum, Andy! If you are talking about building a breakdown workbench, check out this one designed by a member of the Ryobi forum.

http://community.webshots.com/album/156852124ixBNiU

I posted the plans with Dana's permission. I haven't built one yet but the design looks solid.

[WoodRook]

That workbench is one slick design! Are these "plans" available from Dana (maybe as a PDF) as opposed to trying to decipher them from WebShots?

[Chuck C]

Welcome, hope it will be as enjoyable to you as it has been for me.

[Jim-Iowa]

Welcome to the group!
This is not a knockdown unit but I intend to do my own version of this bench. I figure it will take a few years to decide what my ultimate bench will be and this will work till then. I intend to build it w/o the tool tray as my first bench had one and I found it to just accumulate junk. Maybe it`s just me but find if i`m a bit crowded, I put things away instead of leaving them in the way on the bench?
http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/beginners.htm