Buying Lumber

[jtcary]

Can anyone share some ideas and tips for buying straight lumber. I've been going to HD and just eye-balling it, but I know there's got to be a better way.

I'm starting a project that we require 6 pieces of hardwood that are 1 inch wide, 2 inches tall and 5 feet long. I don't have a planer or a joiner, so I've got to buy pieces that are as straight as possible. As always I appreciate the help!

Joey

[Armini]

Just by googling, I would bet these guys would be cheaper and better quality. I have no idea where Camarillo is, and I suspect California is not the greatest place for cheap wood, bu there are certain to be sources around.


http://www.switchboard.com/Lumber-Re.../Merchant.html

[JR]

Joey,

I would think that if you buy a fairly straight board, you could cut it into straight 1x2 strips on the tablesaw.

JR

[jtcary]

Thanks Guys. I probably should have asked my question a little more clearly. What I really need to know is how do you buy straight wood? Should I take a straight edge or level with me? I've been just laying the four sides on the floor and looking for gaps.

[Tom Miller]

I get pretty good results siting down the long, narrow edge of a board. If it looks a little bowed, I apply pressure towards the middle to check two things: 1) how much force is required to take out the bow, and 2) when the bow is taken out, does it look straight, or does it now show the twist that was also there? If it doesn't require much pressure at all, it probably doesn't need much, if any, face jointing.

Regards,
Tom

[JimD]

I always buy S2S wood (it's significantly cheaper) and I rip straight pieces off on the table saw. If the edge is really crocked, I rip one edge straight using a guide and my hand held Milwaukee circular saw. Normally, I just rip one edge, flip the board and rip the other edge. It it's really critical it be straight, I would check it at that point. Most of the time it is straight. I have a melamine extension on my rip fence that makes it a few inches longer - I think that helps.

My other comment is that I expect some lack of straight-ness in anything I make out of solid wood. Wood moves. Even if it is straight at one point, it can absorb moisture and become non-straight. If the grain is straight, however, it seems to help. If it really has to be straight and stay straight, you might want to consider plywood. If it just has to stay visually straight, you should look for straight grained pieces of wood.

Jim

[don_hart]

If you must buy wood from HD (it is definitely not the most econimcal place) don't worry about taking a straight edge with you. Before you head over to the hardwood section stop by te tool crib abd pick out a good straight edge and take it with you to check the lumber.

If there is a source of rough cut lumber in your area you can probably save enough money on your first couple of projects to cover the cost of a planer and wouldn't take much longer to cover the cost of a 6" jointer.

For an example the BF coat of red oak at HD is in excess of $8 I pay $1.60 a BF rough cut. Now that is a real good price and the wood is rough cut so there is some loss when prepping the woos so a more realistic price is from $2 to $2.50 a BF. So using the $2.50 price for comparison you will pay $550 dollars more for 100bf of red oak from HD as compared to rough cut. Even if you end having to pay $4 a board foot you would still pay $400 more at HD.

[crokett]

Find a good wood supplier in your area. HD and Lowes are very expensive and not very helpful.

[Hoover]

[quote]Originally posted by jtcary

Can anyone share some ideas and tips for buying straight lumber. I've been going to HD and just eye-balling it, but I know there's got to be a better way.

The other posts did a great job explaining how they do it, or how you should. They are right to get straight lumber, you need to joint and plane it yourself. Until then, try to find a good cabinet shop, and explain your situation, you might find a temporary source of lumber. The Borg prices are really high. Good luck and hang in there, you'll find a solution. HTH.

[drumpriest]

I buy most of my stuff from a lumber yard near where I grew up. They also have a cabinet shop there, and will plane and joint stuff for me. As they carry 8/4, I can get most anything I need dimentioned by them for me. They do charge hourly rates, but they've never actually charged me, probably because my family has spent so much $$$ there over the years.

If I am pressed, and need a board from the BORG, I site line it, and then I'll grab a straight edge, check the mdf stack, see if it is flat, then sit the board on it and see if there is any gapping. Or twisting, ect....

[jtcary]

Thanks guys. I was able to get some reasonably straight lumber and make some shelves out of it. I'll post some pictures as soon as I can.

I did find a local lumber yard, but will have to get a little more experience before buying from them. None of the wood had pricing on it and even if it did, I'm still learning what is a good deal and what isn't.

[crokett]

Joey,

Don't be afraid to ask questions. Unless prices are really good at one particular place, what will differentiate them will be the level of service. Remind them that you are shopping around to find a regular supplier.