what are bench dogs?

[topherchase]

I,ve only been seriously woodworking for about 6-9 months, and I've seen the term bench dogs a couple times, what are they or it???? I feel stupid asking.... Topher

[leehljp]

Bench dogs are short metal (and sometimes wood or plastic) posts that go into holes on the work bench to hold or keep boards from sliding around, usually it is used in conjunction of some kind of clamp. It holds the workpiece steady.

View them here:

http://www.leevalley.com/home/Search.aspx?c=2&action=n

[topherchase]

I forgot to mention.... I aquired my BT3100 from my lovely wife on V-day 2002 and have been lurking in this forum since then. You all seem very knowledgable and I've recieved great advice from y'all! I recently put the bt3000 wide table kit on my 3100(front rail is different, but doesn't cause a problem). Also have Delta dust collector mdl #50-851 1 1/2 hp an d Delta radial saw mdl# 33-990. So far, the extent of my woodworking is melamine cabinet doors, drawer boxes and other small projects where 90 degree angles are involved. thanks again and any advice directly or indirectly is appreciated! Topher

[Ken Weaver]

Welcome aboard Topher - just so you know, there's no such thing as a stupid question here. We all had to start somewhere, and we don't forget the experience.

[mater]

The first time I saw a workbench with holes in it someone had to explain it to me also. At that time I had never seen one in use.

[kenshep]

There is also a company that has adopted the phrase for their line of portable router tables and accessories. I have some wooden dogs and plastic ones. I live in humid FL and try to stay away from steel in my garage. (I think I need to seal my concrete floor).
Welcome to the forum. There's no such thing as a dumb question when it comes to power tools and sharp objects.

[gmack5]

Welcome topherchase,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding proceedure, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll take keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw. Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.
Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.
Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[monte]

Welcome to the group topherchase! Enjoy the forum!

[softop41]

aren't benchdogs the Woodworking equivalent of armchair quarterbacks?

[germdoc]

Sorry, I can't resist:

[JR]

quote:Originally posted by germdoc

Sorry, I can't resist:

[mater]

quote:Originally posted by germdoc

Sorry, I can't resist:

Very good explanation.

[topherchase]

Thanks to all for the warm welcome! Topher

[Woodnut]

quote:Originally posted by kenshep

...There's no such thing as a dumb question when it comes to power tools and sharp objects...

Do not underestimate my ability to ask stupid questions!

[ElRay]

quote:Originally posted by germdoc

Sorry, I can't resist:

OK. Since you started it:

This is one typical appearance of what is commonly called a bench dog. It reality, a true bench dog is a cross between the common shop dog and the very rare shop cat. The bench dog will actually reside on any semi-level surface within several feet of the ground and retains the ability to get out of the way without being asked or accidentally stepped on, much like the elusive bench cat, but it doesn't shed and posses the common sense not to walk across freshly painted surfaces.

Unfortunately, I have no photos, but I'm sure others do. {hint, hint}

[]

Ray