How to best rip 2 3/4" strips

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  • m_mcgover
    Forum Newbie
    • Aug 2009
    • 10

    How to best rip 2 3/4" strips

    Newbie here. Probably a dumb question, but I'd rather ask a dumb question than lose a finger. I have a standard-issue BT3100 with board-buddy and feather board.

    What is the best way to rip wood into 2 3/4" strips ?

    Should the 2 3/4" strip exit the table saw between the blade and the rip fence?

    I've seen some other tutorials where the strip to be kept is on the other side of the blade using a feather board. Although that way looks like a pain as the fence needs to keep being reset for each cut. I've also seen the board get lifted up halfway through the cut, reversed and finished.

    If I am okay doing a standard rip cut for this width of strip...at what thickness do some of these thin cut techniques need to start being used?

    THANKS!!
  • smorris
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2003
    • 695
    • Tampa, Florida, USA.

    #2
    I'd cut those on the fence side of the blade using a push stick/block of some sort to keep my fingers clear and to help push the piece all the way through. I switch to the other method when the rips get too small to control readily, for me that is under ~1". Assumes a length that is safe to rip on a table saw.
    --
    Any sufficiently advanced incompetence is indistinguishable from malice

    Comment

    • Stytooner
      Roll Tide RIP Lee
      • Dec 2002
      • 4301
      • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
      • BT3100

      #3
      You should be able to rip that size even with the guard in place using a push stick as suggested.
      An outfeed table will help, but should be a necessity if pieces are longer.
      Lee

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      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        Using the fence on the right and maybe a feather board is a method I would use. You'll constantly be moving the featherboard if you have a lot of strips to do. If I have several boards to rip up I'll get them the same width, set up the featherboard and run each one through, move the featherboard, and run 'em through again. A push shoe, or block is useful. I have a pair of grripers that I would use.

        The other method you've probably seen is what is usually called a thin rip jig. Kind of like a featherboard, but rigid. It provides a positive stop to achieve consistent spacing for your rip. The width of the cut would be measured between the thin rip stop and the left side of the blade. you'd place the stock against the stop and then move the fence over. I've seen some thin rip jigs use rollers. Mine was just a rounded over piece of scrap with a couple slots to fasten to the table with T-bolts ('till the dogs ate it). Like smorris mentioned, that's usually done for thinner rips.
        Erik

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        • SARGE..g-47

          #5
          Agree with Smorris and Sky on fence side for the good piece. I rip every day and you ask when should you consider using the feather-board? I use it every rip except the initial cut when I am using a board from my supplier that is straight lined ripped on one side and tapered on the other. As soon as I take the taper off one side using the straight lined referenced to the fence which gives me two straight lines on each side.. the feather-board goes into use. When you do have to go without featherboard.. you must keep the stock pinned tightly to the fence.

          To avoid the lift you mentioned.. raise the blade to full height to allow the downward cutting arc of the teeth to help pin it down on the front of the table. And I always place a block of wood over the stock to be cut and clamp it to the fence with 2 Quik clamps to avoid rise. As for a push-stick mentioned.. always. I never allow my hand to get closer than 6" to the blade even with the use of feather-boards.. over head hold downs on the fence and a plastic shield covering the stock. There is no reason to get closer as the push stick becomes your hand when you get to those last 6" of stock.

          Good luck..

          Comment

          • m_mcgover
            Forum Newbie
            • Aug 2009
            • 10

            #6
            Thanks for all of the replies, folks. More detail after hitting Home Depot. I picked up 1x6 which I can rip in half to get my two 2 3/4" pieces. I assume there is no change to the consensus? I will also cut the pieces down to 4ft lengths before the rip.

            I plan to use a feather board for each rip.

            Taking a closer look at my project, it looks like I need to rip some 3/4" pieces, too. So, smorris suggests that may be too thin to rip against the fence. Any other thoughts on this?

            Thanks
            Last edited by m_mcgover; 05-30-2010, 09:41 AM.

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            • cabinetman
              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
              • Jun 2006
              • 15218
              • So. Florida
              • Delta

              #7
              Originally posted by m_mcgover
              Thanks for all of the replies, folks. More detail after hitting Home Depot. I picked up 1x6 which I can rip in half to get my two 2 3/4" pieces. I assume there is no change to the consensus? I will also cut the pieces down to 4ft lengths before the rip.

              I plan to use a feather board for each rip.
              If you need exactly 2 pieces from a 1x6, the actual size will be 5 1/2". Your saw kerf of 1/8" will reduce the size of the halves to 2 11/16", not 2 3/4".

              Originally posted by m_mcgover
              Taking a closer look at my project, it looks like I need to rip some 3/4" pieces, too. So, smorris suggests that may be too thin to rip against the fence. Any other thoughts on this?

              Thanks
              I cut 3/4" pieces against the fence using a featherboard and push stick. I feel comfortable doing it that way. If you don't, use the waste cut method.
              .

              Comment

              • SARGE..g-47

                #8
                I do 3/4" strips the same way between the fence and blade. I have several over-head stop blocks I milled to 3/8"-1/2"-5/8"-3/4" thick I use with the thinner rips clamped to the fence. You will have to fore-go the shield if you approach it this way. And when I state push-stick, I have numerous ones I build from ply with various profiles. In this case a piece of scrap ripped to 3/4" wide x your stock thickness which is likely also 3/4" is used to lay flat on the TS table and push the final end of the real stock under the over-head gaurd mounted on the fence with clamps. Not all push-sticks are made the same as I find you need various profiles to meet the needs of the task you are tackling.

                There is another way using a sacrificial board attached to the fence to keep the fence distanced from the blade. Perhaps someone will expand on that as I don't use the method even though it is sound also.

                Good luck...
                Last edited by Guest; 05-30-2010, 10:17 AM.

                Comment

                • pelligrini
                  Veteran Member
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 4217
                  • Fort Worth, TX
                  • Craftsman 21829

                  #9
                  Originally posted by m_mcgover
                  Thanks for all of the replies, folks. More detail after hitting Home Depot. I picked up 1x6 which I can rip in half to get my two 2 3/4" pieces.
                  Like others said you'll need to account for the blade width.

                  I'm not sure what your tolerances are, but if they really need to be really exact don't count on the S4S boards from the borg being up to exact tolerances. Usually they are pretty consistent, but they can be off a little at times.
                  Erik

                  Comment

                  • m_mcgover
                    Forum Newbie
                    • Aug 2009
                    • 10

                    #10
                    Again, thanks to all for your help.

                    Tolerances need not be perfect for my application, but I will double-check the pieces I got from HD to make sure I'm close enough for what I need.

                    Comment

                    • herb fellows
                      Veteran Member
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 1867
                      • New York City
                      • bt3100

                      #11
                      Just to close this out (or not), the only dumb question is 'what could I have done to prevent mangling my hand?'
                      Everyone here would much rather tell you how to prevent that from happening BEFORE you start a project than listen to another horror story afterwards..
                      Be careful, be safe, and make a point of enjoying the ride.
                      You don't need a parachute to skydive, you only need a parachute to skydive twice.

                      Comment

                      • jackellis
                        Veteran Member
                        • Nov 2003
                        • 2638
                        • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
                        • BT3100

                        #12
                        Two thoughts on ripping thin thin pieces.

                        I prefer using the so-called "waste" method if I have to rip a number of strip (drawer runners, for example). It's quicker.

                        I usually rip them a bit oversized and then plane them down to the desired thickness. In my case, they needed to be within 1/32.

                        I second Sarge's recommendation on hold-downs. I also need to start practicing what he preaches

                        Push sticks and push shoes (I typically use the latter) are consumables. Better them than a finger or a hand. they're a great use for scraps that would otherwise end up in a landfill.

                        Comment

                        • Norm in Fujino
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2002
                          • 534
                          • Fujino-machi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan.
                          • Ryobi BT-3000

                          #13
                          I have a couple of push shoes, the thinnest being made of 3/16" plywood, and it works excellently for thin cuts between the blade and fence. It holds down the outfeed side of the workplace to prevent it from lifting up, and keeps my hands away from the blade. And since it's only 3/16" thick, I can use it (carefully!) on very narrow cuts between the blade and fence. Of course, I use a feather board as well.

                          ==========
                          ". . . and only the stump, or fishy part of him remained."
                          Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township

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