Routing closed dados

[rnelson0]

I had to route some closed dados see here for my problems. I was curious how the rest of you did freehand routing, particularly how you hold pieces down and make alignment. Through dados would have been easy - line up both boards against each other and route through - but the closed dado was difficult. I had to flip the orientation on each piece and that is what screwed up my alignment because I could not measure from the same edge each time.

Thanks for your tips.

[Jim Frye]

Routing stopped dados...

When I make a shelf unit that uses stopped dados for the shelves, I use the following setup.
1. I set up the project sides with the rear edges butted together and the inner faces pointed up on the bench. This way the dados are aligned and routed at the same time.
2. I use a plunge router for this work.
3. I use an upcut sprial carbide bit for this also.
4. I made two right angle jigs from plywood that I clamp on either side of the cut. They are about the size of a carpenter's square and could be bigger. The jigs are positioned so the router rides between them and they are on either side of the butted work pieces. All four pieces are clamped together and to the work platform.
5. With this setup, the only thing I have to concentrate on is stopping the dado at each end of the cut.

[JR]

I think this setup is similar to what Jim described. I'm actually making the groove in eight legs of a table, but the jig and the principles are the same.

I used a straight router bit with a top bearing, which meant I was able to line up the jig directly on the cut lines. Make sure there is enough room for the router handles and whatnot to clear the jig, clamps, bolts, etc.

HTH,
JR

The jig, setup and ready to cut.


The finished result.

[cabinetman]

Machining dadoes with a router table or a table saw prohibits you from seeing what you're doing. If you are without a router table, you can machine perfect dadoes with a simple "T" square jig you can make in the shop. Here are some details.

I'll just recap some of the principles. You use the same router/base each time, with the handles orientated for a comfortable pass. This puts the base at the same location for the entire pass. The first pass puts the dado in the jig. That orientates where the left side of the cut will be. Then all you have to do is make a mark on the panel where you want the left side of the dado to be. You can clamp into the jig panels that will fit the length of the jig. Most of mine will do at least 48".

What's the beauty of this jig? It lets you see what you're doing. It's a very fast and accurate setup. You don't need a plunge router base. If, you need to stop dado, you can clamp a stop block to the arm of the jig.
.

[rnelson0]

I do not have a plunge router, unfortunately, otherwise I probably would have used your method, Jim. trying to tilt a fixed-base router in and out of a slot is not my idea of fun...

I think I like JR's setup the best. Makes sense...now. Wish I would have thought of that, or asking others, before cutting Now to see if I have the right router bit in the package I bought before I head to Woodcraft tonight.

[crokett]

Years ago I made a couple CD racks as christmas gifts. They were simple but required stopped dados in the sides of the racks. I'd designed it so the shelves sat higher in front than at the rear. I made a bomber-sled type jig and used Jim's method of lining the sides up. I also made the sides of the jig tall enough so I could drop my fixed base router in and tilt it down and still be lined up.

[rnelson0]

I bought a bushing set that Woodcraft had on sale and used Jim's method for alignment. Now I have one good dado cut and 5 so-so ones The project is coming along now, now it is everything else that is a problem! Go figure.