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What makes a good jointer fence is a continuous fence that is "let in" for the bit. If the depth of cut is set for 1/32" or 1/16", a strip of corresponding laminate on the outfeed side of the bit as the take-up will be in alignment with the infeed.
Feather boards are a definite help, but one other problem exists with long pieces is the movement you must make while pushing it through. You will likely have to take a step or two, or change your hand position, or directing pressure differently, and that could affect the smoothness of the cut.
What else works is a long straight edge, that is straight, and fix/clamp the subject piece, and rout with a handheld router and a trim bit for one continuous cut.
You could get a chatter free edge by light passes and a sharp bit. But like you said, you can do pretty good on the table saw.
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Feather boards are a definite help, but one other problem exists with long pieces is the movement you must make while pushing it through. You will likely have to take a step or two, or change your hand position, or directing pressure differently, and that could affect the smoothness of the cut.
What else works is a long straight edge, that is straight, and fix/clamp the subject piece, and rout with a handheld router and a trim bit for one continuous cut.
You could get a chatter free edge by light passes and a sharp bit. But like you said, you can do pretty good on the table saw.
.
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