Newbie here...

**Uncle Cracker** · 03-20-2008, 09:10 AM

Welcome aboard! There's a lot of smart folks here (I am not one of them) who will be able to help you with whatever you need.

**mschrank** · 03-20-2008, 10:06 AM

Hello and welcome! First, understand that your saw is not necessarily at BT3 "wannabe." The Craftsman saw is made for Sears by Ryobi.

Regarding using the measurements on the rail to set the fence: I don't use it. I just measure from the blade to the fence with a steel ruler. If you want to use the feature, the rails can be adjusted by releasing two small cam-lock levers at the point where they attach to the saw body. Release them, adjust the rails back and forth, lock, measure the distance between the fence and blade, adjust again if necessary. I believe you can also make slight adjustments to the hairline indicator on the fence once you have the rails within 1/8" or so. It's a somewhat tedious process, and I found that I often had to move the rails depending on the type of cut I was doing, so that's why I stopped trying to use the ruler on the rail. I've since extended the rails, and found that I was not able to set them in the correct spot.

This link shows the method I use for getting the fence adjusted:
http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/BT310..._RipFence.html

**steve-norrell** · 03-20-2008, 10:24 AM

Welcome from a transplanted New Yorker.

Mscrank's comments are very important. The only addition I would make, and that is covered in his attached link, is to make sure the fence is parallel to the blade -- I spend a lot more time on that than on alignment of the scale on the front rail.

Although the rail scale is consistently accurate, the best way is as he suggested -- direct measurement with a reliable tape or carpenter square.

One other thing, pay attention to the kerf thickness. It can throw off your measurements by up to 1/8 inch.

Again, welcome. Regards, Steve

**poolhound** · 03-20-2008, 11:02 AM

Yet another welcome. This is a great forum and you will get lots of great advice and support here. I contribute to a number of forums on different topics and this is certainly my favorite - friendly and knowledgeable.

Did your CL saw come with the original manual? It has a pretty good section on setting up the saw.

I agree with the others that "Zeroing" the rails is pretty much a waste of time. Once you start using the saw in earnest you will find you will move the rails around for different setups. Just measuring from the blade tips to the fence works for me.

I would contact (PM) Loring "LCHIEN" and get a copy of the BT FAQs. I mislaid mine and got it again from him only yesterday. Loads of valuable info.

I literally just came in from my garage having completed a clean and resetup of my BT. If you haven�t yet done so it would be worth your while before you start any major projects.

I am by no means the expert here however here is what I just did.

1. Cleaned out the inside (remove side panel for easier access.
2. Lube (dry) the raise/lower and tilt mechanisms
3. Set the blade square (perpendicular) to table surface then set the stop
4. Same for 45 degrees
5. Ensure the riving knife/splitter is set properly
6. Set SMT parallel to blade
7. Set SMT square to blade and set the zero stop
8. Set Rip fence parallel to blade (ideally slightly toed out)
9. Clean table surface and wax (keep it off the rails I did this by mistake and it screwed up my rip fence from clamping properly)

FWIW you may want to check the state of the blade as this is a used saw and either clean it or invest in a new one.

I am sure I missed many things but there are lots of folks who will correct me and/or add to this.

Have fun and be SAFE!!

**gettools** · 03-20-2008, 11:34 AM

WELCOME!!!! from Texas

**julienl** · 03-20-2008, 01:14 PM

Thanks...

Thanks to all of you who replied already. I will contact LCHIEN and request the information - Regarding the blade, I did change it, I purchased a Freud this weekend at Sears for $50.
Feel free to continue commenting and sending info my way.

Thanks much.

**eccentrictinkerer** · 03-20-2008, 05:15 PM

Welcome to the best little forum housed on the Internet!

I'm a sort of newbie, too. I got my used Sears 22811 (BT3000 clone) last fall and put a $50 blade on it. My neighbor has a Delta cabinet saw and he can't believe the quality and accuracy of cuts I get with me "cheap little saw".

I've been a tool nut for 51 years, (Dad gave me his old Craftsman drill when I was 10 years old) and it's just gotten worse over the years.

The 22811, is without a doubt, the tool that has given me the most fun times in the shop. I had a Sears cast-iron 9" table saw years ago, a couple of $100 plastic bench saws, but now I'm stylin'.

When I come in from the shop, LOML asks me if been using the new saw because I grin every time I use it.

The folks here are the best. Free valuable advice and encouragement is the norm. Good jokes, too. Read through all the FAQ's, ask questions.

Welcome aboard!

J.D.

P.S. I have 3 P-C 690's, one in the router table, one free-hand and I'm working on the 'Frankenrouter' using the third. This will be an over-arm router using the gantry part of of my old Ryobi RA-200 radial arm saw. Promises to be an interesting project.

**bigstick509** · 03-20-2008, 06:15 PM

**Ed62** · 03-20-2008, 06:55 PM

Welcome aboard! Like the others, I measure from the fence to the blade, not using the scale. Just follow my signature for a link to Ray's writeup on kickback. It could save you from a bad accident (not trying to scare you, but to get you to respect the tool). Take your time when setting up the saw for a cut. In no time you'll become comfortable with it, but you don't want to begin with bad safety habits. They can be hard to break. Just have fun. Oh, one last thing. Keep the blade guard on unless you have to remove it for certain cuts. Wear hearing protection as well as dust protection.

Ed

**JimD** · 03-20-2008, 07:15 PM

Lee Valley has good steel rulers pretty cheap. I have a 12, 18 and 36 inch one. I use a tape for longer rips (I have extension rails), never the rule on the rip fence despite the fact that I made an adjustable pointer for the rip fence. It just takes too long to set up and requires checking anyway. The ruler is easy once you get used to it. I have storage for all 3 rulers on the saw so they are always handy.

I have tried various lubes on the rails inside the saw that the motor/arbor ride on to go up and down but finally listened to others and used candle wax. It works the best and is cheap. This is a weak link of the Ryobi design so plan to take the sides off and rub some candle wax on the pieces that get rubbed when you move the blade up and down at least once a year and anytime the elevation screw gets a little difficult to turn.

If you do not tilt the arbor for awhile, expect the lever that switches the handle from vertical up/down to tilting to be quite stiff. Bump it good and it moves.

Remember to remove the spacers from the arbor when you put a dado set on. Use a 6 inch dado. I have the Freud "Pro" set which has negative hook which is good on the BT3100.

Make yourself some wooden zero clearance throat plates. I use scraps of laminated oak flooring that are 3/8 thick. If you dado the edges (you can do it with multiple passes of the normal blade) you can drop it in where it is supported by the bosses where the 4 screws are (as opposed to the 3 screws that support the stock throat plate. I had to chase the threads with a tap but the threads where in the saw already.

following the link to the old articles is very worthwhile. Plenty of good stuff. You can download the pdf and review later or print it out.

Jim

**Pappy** · 03-20-2008, 08:14 PM

Welcome to the Asylum, Julien!

I will also plug the use of steel rules to set your cuts. I have them in 6", 12", and 24". Until you can get some, get a good tape measure. If you have more than one, always use the same tape start to finish through a project. Minor variations in the markings can throw off your measurements more than you would think.

**Lonnie in Orlando** · 03-20-2008, 09:11 PM

Welcome, Julien

Here are links to two posts re: how I align my BT3000.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=33234

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=36227

I have used this method of alignment for years. Spend a little extra time to make sure that the Sliding Miter Table Base is parallel to the blade, and that the Miter Fence is pendicular to the blade. These must be perfect in order to make 90-deg cross cuts.

Have fun and be safe with your new saw.

- Lonnie

**John Hunter** · 03-20-2008, 09:48 PM

Welcome aboard!

**julienl** · 03-21-2008, 08:26 AM

Lonnie,

Thanks for the info... I will work on this tomorrow. Great way of squaring everything.

Thanks again.

Julien-

Newbie here...

Newbie here...

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