HF Dovetail Jig and Bits

[dt5874]

Thanks for everyone's replies. I think I'll go ahead and get the HF dovetail jig for $29.

Has anyone seen this review on the Woodstock jig which I'm assuming is the same as the HF $29 jig.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00055.asp

Is the setup really as bad as the review says it is?

thanks.
David

[jarhead]

David,
Here's a link to a post that may be of interest to you:

http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topi...TOPIC_ID=15154

[JimD]

David,

The setup takes a few minutes the first time you use the jig but is not overly difficult. There are a few things I would add to the generally good setup tips in the link posted by "jarhead" above.

1. The only reason to move the side stops for different widths of material is to center the piece under the clamps. The clamps work well enough that centering is not necessary to keep the material in place. I set the left hand side stops where I want them and then leave them unless I switch from the 1/2 inch template guide that comes with the jig to a 7/16 template I bought from Grizzley separately (which fits fine and is a bit nicer machined than the stock template - it has "Shop Fox" cast into it and came in a package marked "Woodstock" - further evidence of the similarity in these jigs). Not resetting the side stops saves time.

2. Take a piece of scrap, like is suggested, to make a little piece to help setting the side stops. Mark the top with the spacing of the template (1/2 inch for the template that comes with the HF jig). Be as accurate as possible with these markings - draw parallel lines on the marks. The lines should be at 1/2, 1, 1 1/2 etc. inches from the edge of the scrap. Mark the edge (thickness) of the scrap with the same spacing except offset the first mark by 1/2 the spacing - i.e. by 1/4 inch for the stock template. In other words, you marks on the edge will be at 1/4, 3/4, 1 1/4 etc.. Clamp this jig on the top where you would put a drawer front and center the marks on the face under the fingers of the template. Clamp it down. Move the side stop for the top up against the edge of the scrap and move the side stop for the side of the drawer to the first offset mark on the edge of the scrap. This is similar to the previously posted tip but a little different in that this is just a marked piece of scrap. If you want to combine the two tips, you could put a small additional piece of scrap for a stop at the first offset mark for setting the side stop.

3. If you experience offset of the two pieces of a joint (like drawer front and side) that seems to indicate the side stops are not set exactly right, before moving the stops around check to see if they've moved. If they look right, try using an airhose or something to blow sawdust away from the stops as you're setting up the next joint - it may not be the stop position. Also make extra sure you are against the stop. Finally, I would also comment it takes very little time to flush this up with a belt sander as long as you are reasonably close (after glueup and before finish is applied).

4. In clamping in the pieces, I suggest you do it in a particular order. First I put in the side piece high enough to stop the front but lower than the top surface of the drawer front will be. Then slide in the front up against the side. Finally, reposition the side to be flush with the top of the front. Getting the side flush with the top is one of the tricker parts of setting up to cut joints. I know of no real good way to do this, use your finger for feel or sight along the top or both. If you are a bit off, it will affect the joint tightness and squareness.

5. Forget about perfection - dovetails are very strong joints and do not have to be "light tight". Do your best but don't drive yourself crazy.

Jim

[dt5874]

Thanks Jim and jarhead for your tips. I bought the HF jig after reading your posts, but unfortunatly I'm still waiting for my Bosch 1617EVSPK router to arrive from amazon. Can't wait to try this.

David