Ripping with fence on left?
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
Cabinetman
I used the same idea of a CS upside-down for a month or so but then, I decided to buy a "Real" TS like on the pic
.
Ironhat
The floor on the pic above is actually a "wall to wall" carpet...those times, I was working in one room of the apartment at the 5th floor.
My present garage floor is concrete, painted in green.
The floor looks clean because I must clean to put the car in every night.
If my garage looks one level above the others, Rod's shed looks like 5 levels above my garage...Rod is unique and nobody can compete with him...
nikiComment
-
What does this mean? I suspect you mean "stand on the infeed side" or "stand on the outfeed side", as truly standing to the side would prevent me from providing even pressure while feeding the saw, especially on smaller pieces. I ask simply because I've seen pieces on both the infeed and outfeed side kickback before.Oh, and make sure the operator is standing off to the side - out of the path of kickback.Last edited by rnelson0; 02-06-2008, 05:05 AM.Comment
-
It means don't stand directly behind the board you are ripping. If kickback occurs, it's most likely to shoot the wood straight back. By standing off to one side or the other, you stand a better chance of not catching the wood with your gut.What does this mean? I suspect you mean "stand on the infeed side" or "stand on the outfeed side", as truly standing to the side would prevent me from providing even pressure while feeding the saw, especially on smaller pieces. I ask simply because I've seen pieces on both the infeed and outfeed side kickback before.Mike
Drywall screws are not wood screwsComment
-
My theory is.. when making a 90 degree cut, it doesn't matter. But as MPC pointed out, if the blade is right tilt I would put the fence to the left on an angle cut. If left tilt as most are these days, the fence would go right to avoid a "cramp" between blade and fence with the slightest movement other than due forward.
And I agree with Niki there is no reason on any cut (dadoes exclued which I do with a router table or BT3 I set up with special fence for dadoes) to get your hands anywhere near the blade. Even on wide rips, I use a push stick and I have a RED Line drawn 8" forward of blade on my cast iron table that my hand never goes beyond.Comment
Footer Ad
Collapse

Comment