can you help me ???

[jemmy]

hiya everyone, i`m a newbe to this site, a frein told me about it and i have been reading all the thread`s and found it very true. i am a 42year old parapligic and have a wood workshop i would class myself as a handyman. i live in IRELAND, i would love if someone would like to tell/show me a plan of something/anything to get me back to woodworking again to keep bissy in the day time and give me help through it. thank you in advance. Jemmy.

[ragswl4]

hiya everyone, i`m a newbe to this site, a frein told me about it and i have been reading all the thread`s and found it very true. i am a 42year old parapligic and have a wood workshop i would class myself as a handyman. i live in IRELAND, i would love if someone would like to tell/show me a plan of something/anything to get me back to woodworking again to keep bissy in the day time and give me help through it. thank you in advance. Jemmy.

Jemmy, Welcome to the best woodworking forum on the Internet. It won't be long before you will probably get more advice than you ever wanted. What are your main interests in projects? Perhaps someone could help if they knew more about what kinds of things you like to do. What type of equipment do you have? Lathe, table saw, router????

Again, welcome to BT3Central where help is only a mouse click away (usually).

[Uncle Cracker]

Welcome aboard Jemmy! Like Rags says, please let us know a little about the tools you have and the interests you hold. There's bound to be somebody here with much to share along those lines. And otherwise just lurk around here and jump in anywhere that looks interesting. Some very smart folks here, and some amazingly resourceful ones, too. Hope you have fun!

[LinuxRandal]

Welcome

I would also ask that you look to sawmillcreek.org site, as there is one other woodworker I know in a similar situation. He visits the EZ section I know for one.

What tools do you have now? How are you setup? Always interested in that due to future medical concerns.

[jemmy]

thanks guys for the reply`s, now i`m not to good at the spelling so bear with me thank you. i have a hitachi c10ra 255mm table saw 230volt-50hz 6.5A 5/8abour, and would like to know if i bought a freud sbox8 joint cutter set would it work with my saw ???. i also have a band saw, biscuit jointer, sliding compound mitre saw, bench drill, bench morticer, thicknesser planer, circular saw, belt sander, orbital sander, palm sander, hand planer, drills both corded and cordless, mig welder, i do not have a router as i have only 1 hand and cant use it, and i have a lot of room as i need it for my wheelchair very arkward but needed. thank you 1 more time for the quick reply`s.
p.s. my intrest`s r anyting to do with wood. Jemmy

[Uncle Cracker]

Jemmy, just a sidenote about a router... I know that Milwaukee makes a fixed base for some of their full-sized routers that has a hand "stirrup", if you will, that is meant to facilitate one-hand operation. Here's a link to this unit. I don't know if the thing will fit any 50-cycle routers, though, as Milwaukee only shows one router in their UK site, and it doesn't have a removable base. Other manufacturers, however, might make such a multi-base router for Europe, and accept this base.

Also, Festool offers a full-sized router with a pistol grip for one handed operation. Here is the link on their European site. Don't know the cost, but Festool is usually pretty pricey.

I have seen other one-handed routers before, but memory fails me now. As I recall, one had a "D" shaped grip. Perhaps someone else here will offer another option.

Also, many of the smaller trimmer sized routers are of the "body-grip" configuration, and meant to be used single-handed. Many of these routers will accept bits beyond the standard trimmers (I use a round-over bit in mine all the time) provided they have 1/4" shanks, and should allow you to do at least some of the work you might otherwise do with a full-sized router, although they're not dripping with the power you need for some of the more substantial bits with complex edges.

Another thing to think about is mounting a router in a table. This should effectively allow one-handed use for many operations, although bit changing could be a bit of a pain (pun intended).

Otherwise, it looks like you've assembled a rather formidable tool collection there. You should be able to find lots of prospective projects. Just take your time, and keep safety first in your mind.

And a word about the Freud 8" box joint blade. Your Hitachi saw is a compact unit, and many of us have experienced difficulty in using 8" dado sets in compact saws because of clearance issues. However, this usually occurs when trying to use the whole stack of dado chippers (makes the blade stack too thick). Since the Freud box joint set is just two blades thick, with no chippers, I would think you wouldn't have this problem, although I couldn't say with absolute certainty. You will certainly know for sure after you install it if you have a clearance problem. Another alternative, if you need it, would be to explore a smaller diameter box joint blade.

[jemmy]

Jemmy, just a sidenote about a router... I know that Milwaukee makes a fixed base for some of their full-sized routers that has a hand "stirrup", if you will, that is meant to facilitate one-hand operation. Here's a link to this unit. I don't know if the thing will fit any 50-cycle routers, though, as Milwaukee only shows one router in their UK site, and it doesn't have a removable base. Other manufacturers, however, might make such a multi-base router for Europe, and accept this base.

Also, Festool offers a full-sized router with a pistol grip for one handed operation. Here is the link on their European site. Don't know the cost, but Festool is usually pretty pricey.

I have seen other one-handed routers before, but memory fails me now. As I recall, one had a "D" shaped grip. Perhaps someone else here will offer another option.

Also, many of the smaller trimmer sized routers are of the "body-grip" configuration, and meant to be used single-handed. Many of these routers will accept bits beyond the standard trimmers (I use a round-over bit in mine all the time) provided they have 1/4" shanks, and should allow you to do at least some of the work you might otherwise do with a full-sized router, although they're not dripping with the power you need for some of the more substantial bits with complex edges.

Another thing to think about is mounting a router in a table. This should effectively allow one-handed use for many operations, although bit changing could be a bit of a pain (pun intended).

Otherwise, it looks like you've assembled a rather formidable tool collection there. You should be able to find lots of prospective projects. Just take your time, and keep safety first in your mind.

And a word about the Freud 8" box joint blade. Your Hitachi saw is a compact unit, and many of us have experienced difficulty in using 8" dado sets in compact saws because of clearance issues. However, this usually occurs when trying to use the whole stack of dado chippers (makes the blade stack too thick). Since the Freud box joint set is just two blades thick, with no chippers, I would think you wouldn't have this problem, although I couldn't say with absolute certainty. You will certainly know for sure after you install it if you have a clearance problem. Another alternative, if you need it, would be to explore a smaller diameter box joint blade.

thank you uncle Cracker for the reply. when you say explore a smaller diameter box joint blade ? do you mean a 6"freud box joint set ? and by the way what size of saw is that of mine? 10"/8" blade that is because i dont have the instructions for the saw, lost them in the move and never got reading them. and about the router and all the information i am very greatfull thank you, you seem to be a great man to know thank you again. and for the other guys that replyed i hope to hear from you`s again with more information thank you.
Jemmy.

[Daryl]

If you want to make box joints I suggest you try the nifty jig here http://www.leestyron.com. It is simple to make and very accurate and no special blade needed and it makes a nice little project in itself.

[Uncle Cracker]

Hello again, Jemmy. Thanks for the kind words, but don't spread it around, as I have a bad reputation to uphold...

Your Hitachi saw is a 10" saw (255 mm). Yes, when I suggested you investigate a smaller diameter box blade set, I did mean a 6" set (although it doesn't have to be a Freud). Smaller diameter blades in dado and box joint sets do not usually present a problem, as these cuts usually do not need to be deep. I do not think, however, that you will have problems with the 8" set, as it is usually the thicker 8" dado sets that have clearance issues in compact 10" saws.

[gwyneth]

Hi Jemmy,

Just wanted to say it's great to expand our international horizons here, and to add to Uncle Cracker's router thoughts...with the right guide system, such as the All-in-One clamp and router plate, or the EZ system, and a D-handled router you could probably manage fine.

I like this method because there is literally no way for the router to travel anywhere but in the straight line dictated by the guide, and the D-handled router can be pulled along the track.

Also, instead of getting a box joint blade set, you might consider getting a 6" dado stack...not only would it take care of the box joints, it could do many of the things you might otherwise use a router for.

[jemmy]

Hi Jemmy,

Just wanted to say it's great to expand our international horizons here, and to add to Uncle Cracker's router thoughts...with the right guide system, such as the All-in-One clamp and router plate, or the EZ system, and a D-handled router you could probably manage fine.

I like this method because there is literally no way for the router to travel anywhere but in the straight line dictated by the guide, and the D-handled router can be pulled along the track.

Also, instead of getting a box joint blade set, you might consider getting a 6" dado stack...not only would it take care of the box joints, it could do many of the things you might otherwise use a router for.

hi gwyneth,
thanks for your reply hope im the start of it (international horizons)hope im the first and not the last, i will surly tell ever one what a great inspiration you guys are. i would like to know what is the best one to buy? Freud 8" sbox8 box joint saw blade. or ++====++ Freud 8" sd208 dado set saw blades???? thank you all. Jemmy.

[gwyneth]

hi gwyneth,
thanks for your reply hope im the start of it (international horizons)hope im the first and not the last, i will surly tell ever one what a great inspiration you guys are. i would like to know what is the best one to buy? Freud 8" sbox8 box joint saw blade. or ++====++ Freud 8" sd208 dado set saw blades???? thank you all. Jemmy.

Jemmy,

You're not the first! One of our most inspirational members, Rod Kirby, is in Australia, as are several others. Niki is in Poland. Lots are in Canada, several in the UK, and I don't know about other countries.

I personally would get the 208 dado set. It's not that much more than the box joint set (which is essentially just the two outside blades of the dado set, I believe), and much more versatile.

In fact, just Thursday I purchased Amazon's last 6" Freud dado set (until more come in) and it should arrive tomorrow.

Also, as I mentioned, for a fair percentage of most people's router work, the dado set can substitute. That would be groves, dadoes, half-laps, rabbets, bridle joints, and tenons.

As the late great Danny Proulx, woodworking author and star, wrote in at least two of his books, with a tablesaw and a dado set he could construct anything.

[jemmy]

hiya everybody, can anybody tell me why the handle of table saw is so stiff ? (the wheel that rise the blade) and how to unstiff it, because its not long new and has got no abuse. thank you. Jemmy.

[gwyneth]

hiya everybody, can anybody tell me why the handle of table saw is so stiff ? (the wheel that rise the blade) and how to unstiff it, because its not long new and has got no abuse. thank you. Jemmy.

In our BTs, there is a 'bevel lock' on the front that needs to be moved for the blade to be raised or lowered. I looked at the parts diagram available at http://www.hitachi-powertools.co.uk/service.html and it appears there may be a similar thing on your saw, or the handle could need to be pulled out while turning.

Also, I am unclear about how your saw's electric brake and no-volt stop affect things with the power off, but maybe that has something to do with it.

[Uncle Cracker]

Also, with the BT's, there is a threaded mechanism that is driven by the hand crank that raises and lowers the blade. This mechanism must be periodically cleaned and lubricated (with a dry lubricant) to allow continued ease of operation. Maybe your saw has the same or similar apparatus. It is also possible that debris from cutting operations has somehow built up in the undercarriage of the saw which is interfering with its smooth operation.