Miter Track At Right Angle to Blade?

[DaveStL]

I want to build a new extension table for my Xacta Saw to put the router lift more in the middle and to provide miter tracks for a fence and a miter gauge. The guy at Woodcraft said there should be no problem putting tracks at 90-deg to the blade (so the fence would be parallel to the table saw fence) as long as the top of the track is flush with the top of the table, but I'm wondering if anyone has done that? Seems like a potential to hang up on whan using the saw.

Dave

[cgallery]

Seems like a potential to hang up on whan using the saw.

Dave

I agree. It seems like it would catch material when ripping on the saw.

[Garasaki]

Well the woodcraft guy is exactly right.

If you get it flush it shouldn't cause a hangup. It's just a matter of getting it flush. You could probably add a very slight bevel to any "inside" edges with a file/sandpaper to help avoid snagging as well.

I plan to add similar features for my router table, but it'll be using the wide table extension so it won't be anywhere near the blade.

Have you considered trying to use the stock rails for your router fence to work on??

[LarryG]

Tracks 90* to the blade are done all the time. Never known of anyone to report any problems, given a flush installation.

You can help maintain the integrity of the top (and also minimize any potential snagging problems ... not that I think there will be any) by putting the fence tracks at the extreme outer edges of the extension table.

Another option is to make your saw's rip fence double as your router table fence, either by attaching a sacrificial face to it, ala David Marks, or by building a router fence that clamps to the saw's fence.

Either way ... eliminate the miter track entirely, as these are totally unnecessary on a router table.

[DaveStL]

Have you considered trying to use the stock rails for your router fence to work on??

It's a Jet Xacta (just sold my vintage BT3000 to a friend who is getting started). Otherwise, that would make life easier.

Another option is to make your saw's rip fence double as your router table fence, either by attaching a sacrificial face to it, ala David Marks, or by building a router fence that clamps to the saw's fence.

I have a Craftsman aluminum fence (just saw the same one on the HF router table!) that I'd like to use. It already has slots for stops and featherboards, and a dust hood. I was thinking about clamping it to the saw's fence, but the way the dust collection is set up, it would have to stand off pretty far. Could easily use the saw fence by itself when dust collection isn't feasible from the top, like a dado.

This fence will need custom brackets because the ones that came with it are only for V-track tables. Now thinking I could slot the new brackets to adjust distance from the bit, like the Jet/Jess-em router fence; since the threaded holes in the router lift are too close to the bit, this would require holes in the table (or a miter track with expanders which could run parallel to the blade).

Bill Hylton shows some jigs using a miter gauge, so that's why I was thinking of a miter track.

[LarryG]

Bill Hylton shows some jigs using a miter gauge, so that's why I was thinking of a miter track.

That surprises me, as he is usually one of the leading proponents of omitting the miter track.

I've yet to see any router table jig or fixture that couldn't easily be done some other way, FWIW.

[linear]

Dave, I have the same fence, and I slotted my tabletop, then used some shopmade brackets done in aluminum L-channel to attach the fence to the tabletop. Nothing can bind in a slot like that.



Cheap 1/4" carriage bolts are attaching the fence to the brackets--the heads fit the slots in the extrusions neatly.

The 1/4" slots pass thru the tabletop, and I have carriage bolts with the heads underneath, and a big fender washer to spread the force out some.

Edit: I should add that I intended to do a micropositioner a la Rod Kirby on this setup, but I haven't got a round tuit yet.

[gwyneth]

That surprises me, as he is usually one of the leading proponents of omitting the miter track.

I've yet to see any router table jig or fixture that couldn't easily be done some other way, FWIW.

Yes, in his recent works he shows many alternatives, and spends pages arguing against both miter tracks and using miter gauges.

[DaveStL]

Yes, in his recent works he shows many alternatives, and spends pages arguing against both miter tracks and using miter gauges.

I went back to Woodworking with the Router, and see you guys are right. I was thinking in particular of the box joint jig, but he traps that one between fences.

So it appears the advantage of tracks is ease of adjustment (although it might be harder to fine-adjust if you couldn't pivot on one end), and the advantages of clamping over the edge are total flexibility in placement and ease of removal. Does he bring up any other issues? I was thinking of using miter tracks with expanders to anchor the fence, so it should be at least as easy to remove.

He also uses the table edge to guide things, which would be a little less convenient here because of the saw fence rails. Too, the extension table edge might not like being rubbed on that much. Original idea was to pit the melamine all the way across the extension table frame (the one that came with the saw is like that) but maybe the sides should extend all the way up.

[DaveStL]

[QUOTE=linear;289933]Dave, I have the same fence, and I slotted my tabletop, then used some shopmade brackets done in aluminum L-channel to attach the fence to the tabletop. Nothing can bind in a slot like that.
QUOTE]

Looks nice. That's a lot like what I was thinking, with miter T-track and maybe with the clamps in the top section of the fence like the original. Did you have any problems getting the fence perpendicular to the table? Mine wants to be a wee bit off.

[LarryG]

He also uses the table edge to guide things, which would be a little less convenient here because of the saw fence rails.

Yes, I thought of this after the fact. Should have done so sooner, since I'm facing the same situation as I design the new extension wing for my own new cabinet saw.

My solution is going to be to put the fence tracks at the extreme edges of the table -- in rabbets, so to speak, rather than in the usual dadoes. This will preserve the structural integrity of the top over its full surface. But I'll be building my own fence. Since you're wanting to use an existing fence, this may not be an option for you.

[drumpriest]

I have a router lift in my table saw extension, and it's in dados that I've slightly chamfered with sand paper. I has a similar setup on my previous saw (which was a bt3), and I've never had an issue with anything catching on it. As for integrity, not an issue as there is a frame under the solid top, it's not really going anywhere.

You can do this with track, but I think it's probably more likely to catch, as you can't really chamfer the edges well.

[DaveStL]

Thanks for all the advice. This should be a workable design. I will try running tracks perpendicular to the blade. The miter expanders from Rockler have proven to work well, and by using a bracket on each end of the fence it will be able to pivot on either end for more precise adjustment. At least one of the tracks will have to be somewhat inboard to allow the pivoting. If necessary I can ease the track edges slightly to reduce the chance of a catch.

First, though, is shop rearrangement and DC ducting. But that will be another thread....