using a speed square to guide circular saw?

[lcm1947]

I have seen on numerous occasions cases where people would use a speed square to guide a circular saw to cut a - well I guess up to a 12" board. Doesn't that seem rather unsafe though? What's the overall feeling about this. Do you think it's safe. Anybody ever have a kickback while cutting this way? I'm asking because it sure would be handy when you just need to cut the one board or so and don't want to have to hook up one of the machines or too lazy to use a hand saw. Anyway, thought I'd ask. I've never had a kickback with a circular saw so really don't know what happens. Maybe your left hand and square would be perfectly safe. Just flat don't know. Anybody?

[Tequila]

I do it all the time, and I've never felt like kickback was a possibility. I'll always clamp the square onto the board so that it doesn't slide during the cut. As long as the back of the saw blade stays in the kerf of the cut, and the board doesn't pinch closed on the back of the blade, a circular saw shouldn't kickback. If anything, using a guide should reduce the chance for kickback, since it helps prevent the saw from wandering or twisting during the cut.

[Thom2]

I've done it ... quite a bit ... and while it didn't set well with me at first, it didn't really seem to present any issues in practice.

I've heard of kickback with a circ, but haven't yet experienced it myself. I guess it may change my tune if/when it happens, but until then I'll probably continue as I do.

I'd go with whatever makes YOU feel comfortable ... in the words of my grandfather "whatever tinkers your toy"

[Tom Slick]

I also use the speed square guide method and I find it to be very safe. you put the square on the stationary side, not the cutoff side and you won't have any problems. it isn't really any different then any other type of guide for you circ. saw.
you can have a saw climb out of the cut if you are attempting to hold the cutoff and you pinch the blade. that will happen regardless of using a square as a guide.

[TheRic]

I'm wondering where is the kickback suppose to be??

I have cut all types of things with a circular saw, without and with guides of various types. Never experienced, saw, heard of kickback while doing this. I have had the saw bind up so bad it stops, but have not had kickback.

Since you are moving the saw into the wood. What is suppose to kickback? The saw?

[cwsmith]

I've had my corded circular saw bind a couple of times, especially on sheet goods, but I can't recall a kick back. I have rather thin wrists and I've always kept a pretty tight grip on the beast. I also provide a support for the cut-off so it doesn't drop and bind.

However, I recently purchased a combo that had an 18v circular saw included. I just used it a couple of weeks ago, cutting into some ancient subfloor. That darn thing kicked on me, when it hit a knot that I didn't see. Now that got my attention in a big hurry! I always go the extra measure to ensure I keep my knees and legs well clear of the saw. Good thing!

Personally, I'm not comfortable with using the speed square as a saw guide. Of course I only purchased one a year or so ago. I see some guys who can cut a board square without giving it a thought. I cannot, so usually I make a guide of some kind, and always have it extend over the width of the board so I have a guide all the way through the cut. It's also much easier to clamp, as the triangle just doesn't provide much room for that. IMHO, the triangle doesn't offer a safe way to hold it in position either. On my saw, the motor would extend out over the triangle, placing either my hand or a clamp in the way, and I'd much prefer to keep both my hands on the saw.

CWS

[leehljp]

I am wondering for those of you that have some trepidation of using a speed square as a guide - what is the problem that you are afraid of?

The several speed squares that I have - they have a large enough flange to hold onto one edge of the wood just fine. Just a little grip by hand or clamp, and it doesn't move. Makes a wonderful guide. Better than a regular square and clamp.

What am I missing?

[Ken Massingale]

I've had CS 'kickback' a couple of times, both operator error. With CS kickback the saw comes back (and usually down), not the stock. Be alert and keep the legs clear, be prepared. It's a lot easier to control a CS in a bind than a piece of stock flying off the tablesaw.

[Slik Geek]

I am wondering for those of you that have some trepidation of using a speed square as a guide - what is the problem that you are afraid of?

What am I missing?

Same here! I don't understand the concern.

I've used a Swanson Speed Square numerous times for ten years as a quick guide for a circular saw, ever since I saw a contractor using it that way. It works great! I've used it for cutting 1x, 2x, 4x and 6x lumber.

The only time I've had a circular saw bind or kick back on me (which is rare), is when I'm careless about the cut-off section. If it isn't supported properly, it can bind - but that has nothing to do with the speed square. As Tequila posted, the square reduces (virtually eliminates) a wandering kerf which could induce binding.

I've changed to putting the square on "far side" of the board I'm cutting. I find that reduced the odds of occasional slippage of the square.

[LarryG]

+1 on the "no problem" comments. I learned the speed square trick ~35 years ago, when I first starting working as a framer. Never had any adventures with it.

I've had a CS do a semi-kickback when a dull blade bound up in wet wood. But as Ken says, that sort of thing basically falls under the heading of user error.

[scorrpio]

I use speed square all the time. I have a gauge block of exact width as saw baseplate - so I know where to position the square. It feels very natural and safe. I actually had what could be classified as 'kickback' where a saw suddenly 'jumped' out of the kerf backwards - but that cut was being freehanded, not guided. And the springloaded blade guard immediately slammed in place, covering the blade.

[LarryG]

BTW, here's a similar solution to the same problem from the folks at Lee Valley. I happened to notice it in the last big catalog I got from them; don't know how long they've been selling it. You could probably adapt any small square, or just make the guide portion out of a piece of 1/4" plywood. Same concept as a saw board, except for crosscuts.

[cabinetman]

I use a speed square at times with no problems. I made a quick jig for crosscuts with a CS. It's basically a "T" square, and the bottom leg of the square to the right gets cut off the first time it's used. Thereafter, that edge is the saw cut edge...very fast setup. I also clamp it down, so I have use of both hands.

I've had bind-ups, but no kick backs. One safety issue with the CS is to make sure the guard is down (returned) or the saw has stopped before setting it down.
.

[jking]

Using a speed square as a saw guide is common practice. Now, using it on a 12" wide board may not be completely effective since not all speed squares will reach that far. Speed squares can slip under hand pressure, so clamps may be a good idea if the cut needs to be highly accurate. Unless I'm making a long cut (plywood) with a straightedge, I seldom have two hands on the saw. Right hand on the saw, left hand holding either the board or speed square in place.

Kickback does occur on circular saws, as others have mentioned it is the saw which kicks back. I've had this happen before & was always related to poorly supported workpieces. Generally when I've either been sloppy or lazy about something.

Edit: I should mention I use a "right-handed" saw. Motor on the left side. The speed square probably should be used on the motor side of the saw.

[ragswl4]

I'm wondering where is the kickback suppose to be??

I have cut all types of things with a circular saw, without and with guides of various types. Never experienced, saw, heard of kickback while doing this. I have had the saw bind up so bad it stops, but have not had kickback.

Since you are moving the saw into the wood. What is suppose to kickback? The saw?

Yes the saw kicks back. This happens when cutting without a guide or without proper support of the material, especially large sheet goods. My step-son had a worker who was free-hand cutting a 4/8 sheet of ply when the saw kicked back. It cut his thigh about 1" deep across the outside of his leg. Lucky it didn't cut it on the inside, fast bleeder there.

The guy was lucky or unlucky depending on how you look at it. Guess he'll take the time to set up properly the next time. It didn't help any that the blade guard spring was broken and didn't cover the blade when the saw kicked back.