Little confused about grain

[mackmack]

We just had some carpet put in and the old carpet was really thin, so the doors were fine, but they had to take the doors off because this new carper was to high..

guy told me I just need to cut them down. They are about standard 5" think or so.

What's the best way?

I'm nervous about running it across the table saw... because it is made up of multiple plys of wood and grains going each way at some points.

So I just be looking at a circular saw or even a hand saw?

Thanks for any advice and help.

[Tequila]

Something doesn't sound right.

Standard doors are 1-3/8" thick (interior) or 1-3/4" (exterior). Are you saying that your doors are 5" thick? That's huge.

Regardless, you probably just need to trim a little off the bottom of the door. If it's a fairly modern hollow core door it's like a sandwich, it has a ply face on either side (the bread), and a solid block of wood or mdf at each of the edges (the meat). The solid blocks run about 4-6" from the edges to hold the whole thing together. There's more blocking elsewhere, but it's not important for what you're asking. As long as you're just taking less than a few inches off the bottom, then it's a simple job to cut a door down.

The way I've always trimmed doors is with a straightedge and a circular saw. They're too big to manage on a tablesaw, unless you've got a very big saw setup. I always tape around where I'm cutting with painter's tape - it helps cut down on the tearout.

But the carpet guy is right - as long as you have a straightedge clamped down in the right spot, it's a quick job to trim a door.

[LinuxRandal]

Are they solid doors or hollow core? (thin laminate on the outside)

If they are solid then you will have less chance of chipage then if they are hollow core. If hollow, I would blue tape where I was going to cut (both sides), and have a thin piece (1/8" hardboard) on the bottom side to help stop chipout).

I would also use a sawboard for this (not just a straightedge), unless you have a GCCS (guided circular saw system).

[mackmack]

Sorry guys,

The thicker door is actually a sauna door. So thats why it is like that, still all wood. Not sure 5" but maybe a good 4". Still thick.

The other door is one of those flimsy room devider doors on rails with slats...

So you guys are thinking that I just use a circular saw then? I figured the table saw thing wasnt going to work.

If my circular saw doesnt go all the way through... should I just run it across then flip it over to finish it off...after I clamp on a straight edge of course?

Thanks.

[TheRic]

Don't be cutting that Sauna door to quickly. Is there insulation in it? If you cut some off the bottom is the insulation going to come out or be exposed?? I have no clue if those doors are solid wood, or filled with insulation, or what, just thinking out loud.

How much are you talking about cutting off? Is taking some off the bottom going to leave a gap in the threshold of the sauna?

Might want to consider not having carpet around the door area.

[Tequila]

Don't be cutting that Sauna door to quickly. Is there insulation in it? If you cut some off the bottom is the insulation going to come out or be exposed?? I have no clue if those doors are solid wood, or filled with insulation, or what, just thinking out loud.

How much are you talking about cutting off? Is taking some off the bottom going to leave a gap in the threshold of the sauna?

Might want to consider not having carpet around the door area.

Ignore my advice. I recommended it for a standard interior or exterior door. I have no experience with sauna doors, so I have no idea what they look like or what you'd need to do to cut it.

Good luck!

[Daryl]

Well, if you are going to cut it, score the cut line with a razor knife to minimize tear out/