First real workbench...

[GaryA]

Was going to build my own real workbench (have had a 2x4 bench for many years), and seen many good plans, etc....what do you guys think about this from HF...is it worth it + maybe strengthen it??
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93454

[GaryA]

actually just realized it is only 20" wide...

[gwyneth]

The June issue of Popular Woodworking has an interesting article about workbenches. Unlike the abundance of info available about workbench plans, workbench history, and workbench types, this one concentrates on workbench theory, with 10 rules to know "whether you're making or buying".

I've got three books about workbenches and as useful and interesting as they are, this article sums up a lot of points that are obscured in larger works. It also has virtually the only practical advice I've ever seen about buying one.

[radhak]

... It also has virtually the only practical advice I've ever seen about buying one.

Ok, you have piqued my curiosity - what is the advice?

[Hoover]

20" x 60"L that is a ratio of 3:1, which is about right. You get a bench too wide, you can't reach all the way to opposite side when working. Besides the larger your bench is, the more stuff you stack on it.

[gwyneth]

Ok, you have piqued my curiosity - what is the advice?

I just re-read the article to answer this. Bear in mind that the story was about workbench principles for both shop-made and commercial--stressing what works and doesn't work in the end result (function, not application, as they say in software and appliance design). So most of the info applies to both, and what specifically mentions 'bought benches' is mostly examples of bad.

Bear in mind that summarizing a "10 Rules" story without copying is difficult.

But to illustrate what a different type of workbench article it was, before getting into the rules, the author asks "do you even need a workbench?"

One of the rules is that the species of wood used is less important than popularly believed--beech was used in Europe because it was dense, stiff, plentiful and cheap. Here, he says, it's 'dense, stiff, hard to find," and can be expensive. Thus, it's ridiculous to pay a higher price for beech just because its beech.

The author gives brief suggestions about improving some commercial benches if they're too puny, rack, or are 'too spindly'.

The whole point of the story isn't that he's saying, "make it x by y, with z joints"--it's that he's trying to teach woodworkers to evaluate any bench to see if it will work for them and how they work.

[GaryA]

Interesting...I dont think That I personally need a traditional bench...I have space limitations in my shop...so mine will actually serve as bench/assembly table/infeed for table saw...so I do need some depth & same height as my TS

[Pappy]

Sam's has a steel legged bench with a Maple top for around $199.

Good starting point and easy to add cabinets underneath later on.

[SARGE..g-47]

I've built around 14 or so over the last 35 years. The first was 2 x 4 faced broad side to broad side. Gave it away in a move leaving Florida in 1978 when I moved back home to Ga.

I have made them with solid maple.. finger-jointed scraps.. you name it. But the last 6 have had the same design I arrived at about 10 years ago with what I call a whale-back beam under-neath for additional strenght. This design is rock solid and won't budge when the through tenons are connected.. even without glue as every component is independent but every component supports the other components as one unit.

The current bench was made from a recovered wood beam from an old warehouse being torn down and would have been burned. I may replace the top, but the base stays as is is my basic base design I have cultivated by improving over what I did previously over the years. Cost is around $200 and that is for the vises attached.

Good luck with your decision...

[drumpriest]

I have not yet had a traditional bench. I do have a work mate, that I use for most things that would normally require a bench. (bench dogs etc....), and my assembly table.

The majority of my work is done on the assembly table.

[radhak]

Was going to build my own real workbench (have had a 2x4 bench for many years), and seen many good plans, etc....what do you guys think about this from HF...is it worth it + maybe strengthen it??
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93454

I saw this one only after I bought a cheapo ($75) from HD. (Not all HD carry it - but it too had the Windsor name to it, so I guess it would be similar construction/quality). While that has served me well, I would have bought this one from HF if I were to do it again.

My table (60"L x 36"H x 27D) is slightly deeper and taller and has a pretty thick top, but its more of a table than a workbench : the drawers are positioned such that I could not add a vise (see it lying there on the floor?), which really irritates me, and there are no bench dog holes etc. The two drawers are so deep that it only clutters up, instead of the shallow drawers in the HF one. Even the depth - i think i'd like it narrower.

I know - if you build one, you would get the exact specs you want/need, but with the extremely limited shop time I get, I would never be able to get it done; would rather spend that time working on some 'project'. For the price, HF is offering a pretty good thing.

[LarryG]

Although it's a bit more spendy than the mentioned magazine, there's a world of good advice and food for thought in Lon Schleining's excellent book, The Workbench: A Complete Guide to Creating Your Perfect Bench. It has examples of everything from the fanciest, furniture-quality, traditional European benches to Sam Maloof's plain, rectangular "dining table." The book is full of great full-color photos, and includes plans for building several of the featured designs (including a modernized version of the Maloof bench).

Although very good title is The Workbench Book by Scott Landis. This one delves into the history of workbenches a bit more than the Schleining, and as I recall it doesn't include any plans. Still a terrific reference, though, with endless ideas and things to think about. I have both books and would be hard pressed to pick my favorite.

Both of these titles hammer home the key point that gwyneth mentions, which is that each woodworker needs to think long and hard about what works for HIM, not others.

Gary, for your specific needs (combining work surface with outfeed table) ... maybe take a look at Workstations And Tool Storage from the New Best Of Fine Woodworking series. There are quite a few clever ideas in this one for dual-purpose units, with several of them doubling as outfeed tables.

[vaking]

I have not seen this HF unit in real life, so cannot comment on quality.
Dimensions 60x20 don't look bad. Not too big, correct ratio. The height of 33-1/4" is probably lower than your table saw. That is a good thing - you can always raise the bench easily to match the desired height. The drawers will prevent you from installing front vise. If you want to add front vise to this bench you will probably have to remove drawers or find the way to mount them lower with additional top over them. Whether you need a front vise is up to you. If you do - factor in an additional expense up to $100 for top class vise.

[messmaker]

I have not yet had a traditional bench. I do have a work mate, that I use for most things that would normally require a bench. (bench dogs etc....), and my assembly table.

The majority of my work is done on the assembly table.

I have both and find that I use them about the same way. The assembly table is mobile so I use it when it is nice enough to work outside.

[steve-norrell]

Sam's has a steel legged bench with a Maple top for around $199.

Good starting point and easy to add cabinets underneath later on.

I have two of these benches plus four cabinets. They are excellent with the following notations:

1. The cabinets are wheeled and THAT has proven to be very convenient.

2. The cabinets have only one shelf that can be installed in one of three positions around the middle of the cabinet.

3. I found it inconvenient reaching for 'stuff' at the back of the cabinets and installed slide-out shelves for the bottom. I am thinking about doing the same for a middle shelf.

4. The cabinets can be stacked by taking the wheels off and the wood top off of the one that will become the bottom cabinet.

5. In my application, the top of the workbench is close to, but not exactly equal to, the top of the BT3100.

Summary: a handy way to get a strong working surface and storage space all within in a footprint that is about 72" x 24".

Regards, Steve