Best circular saw blade?

[LarryG]

Are you guys still "final" cutting panels on the TS? Am I expecting too much from the circular or can I do better with a different blade?

Yes, and maybe, in that order.

Another option to the TS is a 1/4" straight bit in a router, guided by your All-In-One. You'll need to make approximately one pass per 1/4" of thickness, which makes the process slower, but you'll get a beautiful cut. The 1/4" bit wastes twice as much wood as an 1/8" saw blade but since you can take the panels directly to final size, the total wasted material is actually less.

(For the 25-odd years in which I did not have a shop building and worked out under the big shade maples in the back yard, my router was my "table saw.")

[GaryA]

Larry - I may just try the router if thats the best I can get from the CS when using good plywood...

For kicks, when at Lowes today, I picked up a Frued 7 1/4" Avanti blade ($20 & SHINY!)to see if the problem was my blade. I made a test cut with my Diablo blade (the one I had problems with this weekend), then tried the Avanti, then took the piece over to the TS. See pictures below for cut results (can you tell I had some free time today! ). Obviously there is no question the TS blade was far superior...but it looks like I'm getting the same results from the Avanti as with the Diablo. Granted, you can tell I didnt use a straight edge on the CS cuts...but got a good amount of tear out on the top of the plywood, then if you look at the second picture, almost none on the bottom. I do remember dropping the saw a couple of months ago...wondering if maybe the arbor bumped slightly out of alignment.

My Dad is coming over Thursday...I told him to bring his shiny new Milwaukee CS he just got so I can give it a go. Any thoughts?

[LinuxRandal]

Granted, you can tell I didnt use a straight edge on the CS cuts...but got a good amount of tear out on the top of the plywood, then if you look at the second picture, almost none on the bottom. I do remember dropping the saw a couple of months ago...wondering if maybe the arbor bumped slightly out of alignment.

My Dad is coming over Thursday...I told him to bring his shiny new Milwaukee CS he just got so I can give it a go. Any thoughts?

Gary, I use the Eurekazone system, and get cuts like your tablesaw. But that is a fancy method (with other tricks) of an old method. From the looks of your pics, your not using a zero clearance insert on your saw? How about one on your circular saw?
The old trick was to use a piece of 1/8" hardboard (last person I saw do it, used thin plastic) over the front of their circular saws blade. IT DOESN'T completely cover the opening, OR YOU LOSE YOUR BLADE GUARD (not safe). I believe they mounted it so it was about even with the arbor, then placed a strip on the rear metal piece of the baseplate.

[LarryG]

got a good amount of tear out on the top of the plywood, then if you look at the second picture, almost none on the bottom.

I'm not certain what you're getting at here, but ... you do realize that with a circular saw, tearout occurs on the top, whereas on a table saw, it occurs on the bottom? The difference is due to the direction of blade rotation relative to the workpiece.

[GaryA]

I'm not certain what you're getting at here, but ... you do realize that with a circular saw, tearout occurs on the top, whereas on a table saw, it occurs on the bottom? The difference is due to the direction of blade rotation relative to the workpiece.

Thanks Larry - yes, I guess when I think about it for a second (duh) that explains it...although not so concerned about the diff between the top & bottom (shouldn't have mentioned it) - just curious why my CS cuts in general are so crappy.

Interesting idea on the hardboard ZC Linux....i'll poke around on that.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I hate to make this recommendation because I know I am going to catch heat, but the Festool circular saw blades are just flat out awesome.

ZC insert will make a HUGE difference as well.

[GaryA]

I hate to make this recommendation because I know I am going to catch heat, but the Festool circular saw blades are just flat out awesome.

ZC insert will make a HUGE difference as well.

The whole deal, or just the blade? They dont make a 7 1/4", do they (does it matter?)

Once, just once, if they can run a 75% off sale!!

[Jeffrey Schronce]

The whole deal, or just the blade? They dont make a 7 1/4", do they (does it matter?)

Once, just once, if they can run a 75% off sale!!

6 1/4 will work just fine for fine cutting of sheet goods.

BTW, I tend to agree with Loring on the recommendations for using other tools for this project. But your specific question is "what is the best CS blade out there" and I feel that for sheet goods the Festool Fine in 6.25 is the way to go.

[LinuxRandal]

DOH, sometimes I get brainfreeze. To show yourself just the difference with a zero clearance insert, a simple trick/jig can show you both sides of the equation (literally). Build a sawboard. It is a sheet of wood with a board as a guide/rip fence, that you trim where the blade goes, so it has a zero line. Then you examine the board you cut, UNDER the sawboard, as compared to the side (cut off) not under the sawboard.

The reason I went with the EZ over this method, it for me becomes a portable shop (other capabilities) , that I can take and help family members with their houses and projects (more carpentry then fine woodworking).

[GaryA]

DOH, sometimes I get brainfreeze. To show yourself just the difference with a zero clearance insert, a simple trick/jig can show you both sides of the equation (literally). Build a sawboard. It is a sheet of wood with a board as a guide/rip fence, that you trim where the blade goes, so it has a zero line. Then you examine the board you cut, UNDER the sawboard, as compared to the side (cut off) not under the sawboard.

The reason I went with the EZ over this method, it for me becomes a portable shop (other capabilities) , that I can take and help family members with their houses and projects (more carpentry then fine woodworking).

So the EZ system is basically this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=3MUEN1Q02J0FU
And you get the various size guides that can all be assembled up to ripping a full sheet? I dont get where the zero clearance on this comes in....is it on the saw plate? Because it doesnt look like the blade goes through the guide like on the Festool??

[bthere]

So the EZ system is basically this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=3MUEN1Q02J0FU
And you get the various size guides that can all be assembled up to ripping a full sheet? I dont get where the zero clearance on this comes in....is it on the saw plate? Because it doesnt look like the blade goes through the guide like on the Festool??

That's the same system I use for most cutting of sheet goods. The saw plate that is used attaches to the bottom of your circular saw's base plate. Two different zero clearance inserts can be used on the attached plate. The first is flat and allows you to use the saw off the guide system. The second insert is stepped to accommodate the extra height that is added when the saw is running on the guide system. When on the guide system, the edge of the guide acts as part of the zero clearance system.The main Eurekazone website has some pictures and videos that show how the system works.