First Plane Suggestions

[swilkinson]

I’m looking to get my first hand plane. I plan to use it mostly to clean up end grain and make some minor adjustments fitting drawer faces. I’ve decided to go with Lie Nielsen but I’m not sure which one.

I know there is no such thing as a one size fits all plane, so which plane would you suggest as the first plane? and why?

I don't know a lot about hand planes so detailed "why" information will be very helpful.

So far I’ve narrowed my choices too:

No. 60 1/2 Block Plane
No. 60 1/2R Rabbet Block Plane
No. 102 Low-Angle Block Plane

Are their any other Lie Nielsen planes I should be considering? Why?

Thanks in advance for the input!

Scott

[Otter]

I say get one with wings, tail and landing gear.

[crokett]

Be careful... Once you go down that road there is no going back. There are several members here who can warn about the dangerous addiction that is planes.

[swilkinson]

I say get one with wings, tail and landing gear.

As I used to fly for a living, that would be my 1st choice.

However, the funds dictate I stick with the woodworking make and models.

Think woodworking is expensive?

The Cessna 182T I rent to stay current goes for $215 an hour. OUCH!


crokett

I've always been one to learn the hard way.

[LarryG]

Slippery slope warnings aside, I have an L-N 60-1/2 (low-angle adjustable mouth block plane) and it's a joy to hold and use. A little spendy -- around $127 during a Woodcraft 15% off sale, IIRC -- but worth every penny.

I own only three planes and am far, far, FAR from an expert but I think many who are will tell you that an LA block plane is the correct first purchase for most woodworkers.

[tellittojake]

end grain is the issue

The planes you are talking about are fine tools and worth every penny but you might want to spend less on a decent one and have more than one to rely on. Each plane has its own special purpose. A low angle is a must for end grain, as if the angle of the plane is too severe-it digs into the grain and not sheer it off. The block plane has many uses. There are decent planes such as the Anant line and Groz, which after tuning up work well. You will need to sharpen and tune any plane that you buy. The higher end planes like you mentioned are better out of the box but you will need to learn to sharpen any plane that you have anyway. I would suggest a low angle block, a Stanley 92 shoulder and a #5 jack plane and an assortment that will work well for your various needs and give you more flexibility than one high end plane can offer. The Groz or Anant low angle block and Jack planes, plus the Stanley 92 will run about the same money. Some things to think about but I wouldnt rush into any buy- the low angle block is where to start- you will find many uses for it. Jake

[Tom Miller]

If you want to do end-grain well, then that probably dictates the low-angle block plane. This will do reasonably well with the other odd jobs, too.

But for a really good jack-of-all-trades, you can't beat the Lee Valley Low Angle (bevel up) Jack. This plane will do a good job of smoothing, as well as jointing, and works extremely well on a shooting board for squaring up or mitering end grain.

If I had a set amount of funds to work with, I'd be inclined to get a less expensive Stanley block plane, since even the new ones can be made to work well enough without too much effort. And then spend the $$ on a LA Jack.

Regards,
Tom
[edit: I don't think it was clear from how I wrote the above, but while the LA Jack is a more versatile plane (IMO), the block plane should come first. It's the "must have" of the two.]

[softop41]

swilkinson
I swore that I would never have, much less use a plane. I hated them! I was determined have no cutting tools w/o a power cord.
I finally broke down and bought a Lie Nielsen low angle block plane a couple months ago for a specific part of a project that I couldn't figure out how to do any other way.
I love it and have found many other uses for it since that original project.
I have no plans to slide any further down that slippery slope especially since I've gotten pretty far down the slippery slope of turning(which I also saw no reason to start until recently)
YMMV
Jerry

[jp_spins]

Here's a very informative site for handplanes.

http://workshop.tjmahaffey.com/workshop/planes1.php

[scorrpio]

Here's a thing to consider:
1. Look for old planes on ebay. I scored a few that required a thorough cleaning and a new iron, but otherwise were in great shape. A little bit of sole lapping on a glass plate plus fine sandpaper, getting the gunk off various parts, a bit of wax, and it begins to look real good.

2. Plane irons, this is where you might consider investing a little. You can get quality irons from LV or from LN for about $30-40.

Sure, an expensive plane from LV or LN might have a better iron positioning mechanism, making the plane easier to tune, but a bargain plane with a quality iron might produce real good result with just a little extra attention at fraction of the cost.

[swilkinson]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

Due to my lack of confidence in my ability to properly tune a plane I'll probably stick with a Low Angle LN.

Any comments on the 60 1/2 vs the 102? Bronze vs Iron?

Scott

[LarryG]

I'd choose the 60-1/2 over the 102 since the adjustable mouth makes the plane more versatile. One factor that might point more to the 102 would be if you were a trim carpenter and had to carry the plane in your nail bags all day ... the added weight of the 60-1/2 might not be appreciated. For shop use, this is a non-issue.

When I was choosing my L-N 60-1/2, I agonized mightily over it versus the low-angle Veritas from Lee Valley. Plane experts will tell you -- they certainly told me, at the time -- that the Veritas is a more modern and improved design, whereas the L-N is a clone of the old Stanley design. IIRC, when WOOD Magazine tested block planes a while back, they chose the Veritas as the overall winner, over the L-N. I had my heart set on an L-N, for whatever reason, so that's what I went with. But given that the Veritas costs only $119 with an A2 iron, it definitely deserves your serious consideration. (My shoulder plane is a Veritas and it is a fine, fine, FINE tool. My next plane purchase will probably be the L-N 212 scraper but I also want the LV low-angle jack that Tom mentions.)