router table plans

[jussi]

There seems to be tons of free router table plans on the web and I'm a little overwhelmed by all the choices. Is there one that you guys prefer/recommend (or have personally used)?

[THyman]

How aout Norm's. You can find the plans and videos here. http://www.newyankee.com/collection2.shtml

[BigguyZ]

I've asked the same question, and a lot of people have recommended that I get Bill Hylton's "Woodworking with the Router". Not only is it supposed to be a great book, it has a router table design that improves on Norms version.

[tbibler]

This one is not free (it costs $9.99) and you can instantly download it. I built it and love it because both the router table and base are mobile.

http://plansnow.com/ultrouttabl.html

[LarryG]

A lot depends on how fancy you want to get. A router table or station has at least two components (a tabletop and fence) and an optional third (a storage unit underneath the tabletop).

Most router stations that include all three are essentially just variations on the same basic idea as the New Yankee Workshop design and the one in the Bill Hylton book. I would suggest the Hylton book because the purchase price will give you not only the plans for this one table, but also some excellent food for thought on how a router table ought to be designed. There's also a lot of other router-specific jigs and fixtures and accessories, as well as a wealth of information on routers and routing in general.

Full-blown router tables are somewhat of a chicken/egg project ... in order to build a nice router table, you really need a router table! So you might consider building a fairly rudimentary design first, using it for a while, and eventually build yourself a really nice full-blown station with all the features. Many woodworkers find that a router table is a lot like the workshop that houses it: there's always going to a Next One that'll be a little bigger, a little nicer, a little more refined.

[linear]

I like LarryG's perspective. I'd say build a dumb-as-dirt table first, and use it for a while to get to know what fancypants features you really want. And then build your second one.

You may or may not want:

• fence micropositioner
• bomb-proof dust collection
• router lift
• zero-clearance inserts
• lots of tabletop real estate
• t-tracks in the tabletop
• drawers for bit storage

(others can probably figure more features out)

Screw your router to the underside of a melamine scrap and run for a while with a MDF fence. See how much you miss the fancypants features. Then build to suit.

[4estgump]

Well here goes. I had an old cabinet model TV that had died a long time ago. I gutted it a long time ago. Last week is was resting in my shop and looked at that empty box on casters. Then it hit me like the ford light bulb. So i pulled it out. Put a 6" kick plate under it with the casters for the right height.
Then i took a level and found the center on the top. Moved the center back
2". I then set my router on top of the center mark. Scribed around the base,
and cut it out with my hand jigsaw. Then took the mounting plate off my BT3000. Then turned my router upside down and placed it through the hole and
mounted the plate to the router, scribed around it. Removed the plate and router. Then set the depth of the router to match the plate thickness, and routed out the plate hole. Reassembled the unit drilled mounting holes and put all the orginal screws in. Have used it once and worked great. Planning on boxing in the router, adding draws to the sides and bottom, then the plumbing for chip collection. Am working in my mind on a better rail system.
Hope this might help alittle.
4est

[ChrisD]

I have a work-in-progress router table, the design of which I got from the February FWW. It's essentially a top-and-fence-only design (using Larry's "top-fence-base" model). In use, the rear will be clamped on to the workbench and the front will be held up by a Ridgid tilt-top work support. It has braces underneath (like a torsion box) to keep the table flat. It measures 48"x24", and except for the hardware and the router plate, it's made completely out of 3/4" MDF. When not in use, it rests on edge on a shelf.

I chose this design because I want a large working surface but my shop is too small for the footprint of a full-size cabinet. Plus I like working outside the shop on warm days, so portability is a big plus.

[John Hunter]

I built the Kreg Router Table. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-V06-DVD-R.../dp/B0007VYL3Y I was able to get the DVD from my wood workers club library but they are only $9.99 and are well worth it since they not only have the plans but a step by step instructions that are great.

[JimD]

My current router table is my third. It is a combination of Norm's basic design and some plans from American Woodworkers router issue a couple years ago. The American Woodworker plans are for a built in router lift that is attached to the back of the router table. It works nicely and allows you to tilt up the top for bit changes - easiest method I've used. Parts for the lift were only about $50. Norms design is a good layout for storage. I used a sink cutout purchased for about $5 for the top and edged it with maple scraps I had. A sink cutout is the part the installer cuts out to install a sink in a kitchen. High density particle board covered with laminate. Great stuff for a router table top.

Jim

[moc]

I built the Kreg Router Table.

I plan to build this table as well (if spring thaw ever arrives). One caveat - this Router Table DVD is instructions / plans for just the cabinet. They recommend buying a premade top. So if you're looking for a design for constructing the top / fence / etc. you will also have to check out some of the other options.

Still, I chose it because for a newbie like myself, it seems like a straightforward design and a good opportunity to learn the kreg system at the same time.

*moc

[kgworkman]

My plain, simple table...

I looked at a lot of plans for router tables and had high hopes for building one. Then I looked around my shop and said, "Why bother?"

When we bought our house there were a bunch of old kitchen cabinets in the basement. Looking at these I found one that had a single large cupboard and a column of small drawers (4"-6" wide) down one side.

I slapped some wheels on the bottom, and built a new table top for it. I mounted the table to the cabinet with some old door hinges, so I can lift it open, and switch it out for other tops (i.e. miter saw, etc.) The large cabinet already had a shelf in it, so I enclosed the upper portion for DC purposes, and I still have lots of room below for storage. The small drawers are great for bit and tool storage as well.

So the whole thing cost me maybe $40, and now I can sit around and look for a fence when I'm ready. So far it has worked great. I made the table surface nice and large (about 2'x4'), out of cheap plywood with laminate to cover. I got lucky and it was flat without any rework.

So, long story short... I agree with the other guys. Go simple, try it out for a while (see if you even use it), then add and enhance as needed.

[RodKirby]

About as simple as it gets...

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=22491

[John Hunter]

I plan to build this table as well (if spring thaw ever arrives). One caveat - this Router Table DVD is instructions / plans for just the cabinet. They recommend buying a premade top. So if you're looking for a design for constructing the top / fence / etc. you will also have to check out some of the other options.

Still, I chose it because for a newbie like myself, it seems like a straightforward design and a good opportunity to learn the kreg system at the same time.

*moc

For the top I used some bar top that I had salvaged, I also eliminated the casters since I wanted it in a fixed location. Additionally I made the top a tilt up which I love for the ease of setting bit height. Here is a photo of it before I painted it.