Well at least to me anyway. In the Winter 2007 Collector's Edition of Woodworkers Journal magazine there is an article on a 60" router-jointer jig by Carol Reed ( The router lady ). It sure looks like it should work as well as a jointer at least for edge jointing anyway. So if you are like me and buy pre-cut lumber anyway this might be sufficient for your needs too. I guess the big thing is that you can hang it up or stow it someplace other then it taking up floor space when not in use. This is a big deal to me so I am pretty excited about it. Any fed back pro or con is welcome before I build it.
The final answer to the router jointing problem
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lcm1947: is it possible that you can post a copy of it or pictures of the drawings?_________________________
omarComment
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Mac, if you build it, I'd sure like to see pics.
EdDo you know about kickback? Ray has a good writeup here... https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...mare-explained
For a kickback demonstration video http://www.metacafe.com/watch/910584...demonstration/Comment
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Sorry but no Niki that's not it. Not even similar actually. I wish I could scan the picture for you guys but I don't have a scanner. That would have been great to be able to do. As far as showing it when I build it I will but don't wait on me. It's winter right now and I don't go out into the shop/garage at all if it's lower then 55 degrees. Just too darn cold for those old bones. But I certainly do intend to build it as I really think this will be my answer to the jointed edge problem I'm having. Let's see if I can describe it a little. It's a 3/4"x15"x60" plywood table. Just a flat plywood board. The router attachés from under it just like they do on any router table but on this one the router is just attached directly to the underside of the table with the bit sticking up through a 1/2" round hole. No fancy plate or anything. Just attachés with screws going down into the router base from the top of the table. This 1/2 " diam. hole in the table that the bit sticks up thru is 28"'s from the right end or in-feed side. There is a L shaped fence that is made from 2 pieces of 3/4 x 60"'s " plywood. One is called the fence botton and is 3" wide and the other called the fence face and is 2" wide. The is a router bit recess drilled, cut or however in the fence face which is where the bit sticks up into. The recess/notch may also have to be in the fence bottom but they didn't mention that or I missed it the first time reading it. You'd know once you started building it though I'd imagine. Stuck onto the left side ( out-feed side ) of the fence face is a 1/16" x 2" x 33" piece of plastic laminate. The fence is attached by two 1/4" x 20 carriage bolts with star knobs on each at each end that goes Thur the fence bottom and table. The hole that is on the left side is drilled 7/16" so you can move the fence to adjust for the bit to insure proper cut depth whereas the hole on the right is just 1/4" . Lastly there are two table rails that are 3/4" x 2" x 60" plywood again. The whole thing is made of plywood as you can see. These rails go on each side or I should say lengthwise. I assume to strengthen the table top. ? and to keep it from bowing? Anyway that's it in a nut shell. Any questions? Oh I forgot to mention that they suggest a upcut or end mill spiral-flute bit. Seems they insure a superior cut and actually helps hold the wood you are jointing down because they exert downward force on the wood you are cutting.Last edited by lcm1947; 01-15-2007, 03:20 PM.May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, MacComment
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Excellent, detailed description, Mac. It sounds like a winner. Thanks for sharing, and we'll be waiting for the pics sometime around April.
EdDo you know about kickback? Ray has a good writeup here... https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...mare-explained
For a kickback demonstration video http://www.metacafe.com/watch/910584...demonstration/Comment
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