Thx, Greg (Stormbringer). That is exactly the site/jig I was thinking of. But I didn't have it at my fingertips. Was hoping someone would come along and give it. Supper, that's the site. I use it quite a bit on plywood sheets.
Thanks for the link--may try to test it out before kickoff on Sunday.
BTW, I actually laughed out loud at work when I read the plans and came across this line wonderfully ironic/circular reference "...if the guide ripper isn't straight as an arrow none of your future cuts with your sawboard will be either." Looks like I will need to build a jig, to a get a straight cut, to build my sawboard!!! Just made me laugh.
As others have said you can do a lot with a few tools. The table saw will probably be you biggest start up investment. Three years ago I started out with the Ryobi BTS15 table saw, in hindsight I should have gotten the BT3100 or the BTS20. My first project was a children’s bookshelf. Made 99% of the cuts on the table saw and then nailed it together. The cuts I didn’t make with the table saw I made with a handsaw. My second purchase was a $20 miter box. I had to do some molding in the house, that miter box was just replaced after 3 years with a compound miter saw, I have to do a lot of crown molding in my new house. 3rd I got a air compressor and a brad nailer for the molding. My 4th power tool purchase was a router and a table. I made a hanging bookshelf with routered edges with that. With the above tools I made a large entertainment center with two bookcases big enough to hold a wide screen TV. During that project I bought a $19 biscuit jointer off of Ebay, I have know idea who makes it but for a starter biscuit jointer it worked well. My last project was a small step stool borrowed a band saw to cut the curves on the sides of the stool and since then I purchased the Ryobi 1 plus renovator combo kit with a discount coupon I now have a jig saw which I could use instead of a band saw if needed, but I received a band saw for Christmas. So I have a good selection of power tools but it has taken over 3 years to get these tools. In addition to all these power tools I have a good selection of hand tools. Nothing real fancy either Home Depot sales or when Cummings industrial tools makes it to the area I find stuff there. I have even gotten a few good tools at yard sales and flea markets. It pays to look around in your area. As far as brand selection goes it depends on your type of use Ryobi is a fairly good product line I have many of their 18volt cordless tools and the table saw. I am not a contractor so my tools don’t get every day use but I do put them through a tough work out when I use them. 1 thing I always keep in mind about buying power tools is to avoid making a purchase on impulse. With the exception of my table saw and biscuit jointer, I usually put no less than 6 hours of research into my large/power tool purchase usually over several days. The Internet has a wealth of information and forums like these can help you in your decision. Ultimately the decision is yours but you may learn of a problem that others have encountered that you do not wish to encounter.
BTW, I actually laughed out loud at work when I read the plans and came across this line wonderfully ironic/circular reference "...if the guide ripper isn't straight as an arrow none of your future cuts with your sawboard will be either." Looks like I will need to build a jig, to a get a straight cut, to build my sawboard!!! Just made me laugh.
So how does one go about getting a straight board. Do I need to a lumbaryard and have them run it through a jointer? Is a board from Home Depot going to be straight enough?
Well, you really didn't say what type of tools you have and type of ww
projects you plan to do in near future....kind of open ended here?
If you are wanting to do small, intricate hobbycraft,projects that usually are
not real expensive to purchase, you might want to think about scroll sawing
to start with. There are a lot of dedicated people out here that their main
interest is scroll work....and I might add, that they do some very beautiful
intricate, involved work that is something to see. A good scrollsaw is usually
a lot cheaper than their bigger cousins( tablesaw, bandsaws, etc.) but they
don't take up a lot room or make a lot of noise either! eezlock
So how does one go about getting a straight board. Do I need to a lumbaryard and have them run it through a jointer? Is a board from Home Depot going to be straight enough?
-Dennis
The base board doesn't have to be straight because when you cut it with the saw that will make it staight provided the ripper board is straight. Now how do make the ripper board straight. You pick a straight whatever type of board you decide on at HD or Lowe's. I usually borrow a 48" level from their tool dept and measue with it to pick a good staight ripper board.
Also and I know guys will voice different opinions on this but I use hardboard for the base board. You know the brown stuff ( peg board ) except without the holes. It's cheap and lays flatter for me then 1/4 plywood. I've had two different ones made from plywood warp on me. For the ripper board I use plain old pine. I glue the ripper board onto the hardboard myself but I suppose you could screw through the bottom of the base board up into the pine ripper board. Hope this helps. Oh one thing. If you glue make sure you have clamps deep enough depending on how wide of ripper board you choose. Standard size clamps aren't deep enough to clamp to say a 4" board when glueing it. I use the 3" deep clamps for it and they work fine but if you don't have them on hand they cost about $8.00 apiece and you'll need 4 or 5 at least.
May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac
HD boards are unlikely to be straight enough for gluing up panels. But you don't NEED expensive tools to do it. A router freehand and a straight edge with a flush trim or pattern bit will do it. I do this often with really long boards. I use a 5$ MDF shelf from HD as my straight edge, clamp to it, reference off of it, and rout a straight side on my lumber.
For smaller pieces you can use a router table with the outfeed side slightly shimmed out to joint 3/4" stock of around 2-3 ft in length, this works well also. A jointer is nice, but you CAN get by without one for a while.
HD boards are unlikely to be straight enough for gluing up panels. But you don't NEED expensive tools to do it. A router freehand and a straight edge with a flush trim or pattern bit will do it. I do this often with really long boards. I use a 5$ MDF shelf from HD as my straight edge, clamp to it, reference off of it, and rout a straight side on my lumber.
For smaller pieces you can use a router table with the outfeed side slightly shimmed out to joint 3/4" stock of around 2-3 ft in length, this works well also. A jointer is nice, but you CAN get by without one for a while.
Anyplace on the web I can get instructions for this? Or is as simple as leaving say 1/16 extra on my cut, clamping a straightedge on my piece and run a router with a flush bit to make the edge to size?
So how does one go about getting a straight board. Do I need to a lumbaryard and have them run it through a jointer? Is a board from Home Depot going to be straight enough?
-Dennis
I don't have an 8' sawboard yet, but I used MDF from Home Depot for mine. I got them to cut a full sheet down to two 4'x4' sheets on their panel saw. Out of the 8 sides I now had, finding a straight one was easy.
One day I'll have an 8' sawboard that can be used for a circular saw on one side and jigsaw on the other.
When you build one, make sure it's wide enough so your saw clears the clamps you use.
"Success is gettin' what you want; Happiness is wantin' what you get." - Brother Dave Gardner (1926-1983)
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