Thanks BT3 Central!

[Chinook119]

Hello everyone. I'm new to the hobby and joined the forum only a few weeks ago. I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for helping me without realizing it. My dad is a member and recommended I joined the forum and between his help and everything I've learned here, I haven't had to post a single question yet. Although I'm sure I'll think of plenty more. This is a great place and thanks again!

[Ed62]

Welcome to the site. Since I have no idea what I'm doing, I'll say "Thanks" too.

Ed

[SARGE..g-47]

Howdy Chinook, I used to "ride ya" in Viet Nam. Never wanted to get out, but they insisted. ha.. ha...

Welcome from another new to the forum, clueless one. But.. we'll figure it out eventually with a bit of persistence.

Gotto go to the shop now to cut some tenons in stretchers to mate to alaready cut mortises on table legs. I figure if I cut em undersize and just wrap duct tape around them, they'll eventually fit. Just kiddin' bout that part.. :>)

Who's your dad?

Regards...

[gmack5]

Welcome to the Family

Welcome Chinook119,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.
I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list
This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[cabinetman]

WELCOME TO THE FORUM CHINOOK

Glad to have you here. Now no one will wonder where you are late at night. Some great info here, and don't be afraid to ask questions.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[Chinook119]

Thanks for the warm welcom everyone. Sarge...thank you for your service to our country. I did some time in the service but I didn't see any action. Oh, my dad is BillB in Pa.
Gmack5...wow thanks for all the info and links...after the little one goes to bed, I'll be back here checking them out.

[lcm1947]

Yes indeed welcome to the forum and now that you got the standard welcome from gmack5 you should be set for awhile. Look forward to seeing you around. It's always nice to get a new member to the forum.

[John Hunter]

Welcome aboard Bill.

[crokett]

Welcome. Gladd to have you aboard. There are at least a couple members up in PA.

[bigstick509]

Welcome

[Wood_workur]

welcome aboard buddy.

[GeekMom]

Welcome to the most helpful and friendly forum around!

[softop41]

Chinook,
Welcome to the best Woodworking forumon the 'Net, period!
Jerry

[leehljp]

Welcome Bill! Join in the fun here and let us get to know you! Glad you signed up.

[mater]

Welcome to the forum Bill. Enjoy yourself.