Questions about glue up table tops

[lcm1947]

I am planning on glueing up boards for a coffee table top and wondering to save some time if I just couldn't use fewer wider boards rather then so many narrower ones. Probably a reason but if not makes sense to me to use wider ones. Example my table top is supposed to be 24" wide therefore I'd have to use 6 each 4" wide boards but why not use 2 each 12" wide or 3 each 8" ones? If there is a reason I'd love to know it because I think I'd rather do the fewer boards.

[cabinetman]

The wider the stock, the more probability the stock will want to take on it's dislike in being made into a table. Each piece being of varied moisture content and density, of different parts of the tree, being stored differently has characteristics that become obvious proportionate to its mass. Narrower boards are less likely to exhibit these problems to that extent.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[Wood_workur]

but also, the more pieces, the greater the chance of a large (1/8") misalignment from board to board (thickness wise)

[cabinetman]

but also, the more pieces, the greater the chance of a large (1/8") misalignment from board to board (thickness wise)

If the stock was prepared correctly, there wouldn be such a deviation. That is why we have planers, drum/belt sanders, hand belt sanders, draw knives, hand planes, card scrapers, block sanders, loose wood blocks and sandpaper, in descending budget order to take care of those differences.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[Pappy]

The wider the stock, the more probability the stock will want to take on it's dislike in being made into a table. Each piece being of varied moisture content and density, of different parts of the tree, being stored differently has characteristics that become obvious proportionate to its mass. Narrower boards are less likely to exhibit these problems to that extent.

English translation: The wider the board, the more likely it is to cup or twist.

[lcm1947]

Thanks for the replies. So is there a rule of thump about how many boards for a given width or something like that or is " more is better " but then when do you say " enough is enough ". I mean you wouldn't have X number of boards 1" wide, right?

[jackellis]

At the Woodworking Show last month, one of the instructors suggested no more than 3 or 4 inch widths for individual boards. His reasoning is that most movement occurs across the grain rather than along the grain, so by glueing up narrower boards, the glue lines act as barriers to width-wise movement.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I would say that the size of the project would dictate this a bit as well. The type of stock (ie the stability of the wood) also would dictate width. I would say that if your plans are calling for 6" then use 6". One a 24" wide coffee table I would use (4) 6" boards. The alternative would be to use hardwood sheet goods and put a solid wood trim around the edges. No fear of wood movement using sheet goods.

[Wood_workur]

I've glued up with 3 6" pieces into a table top before. It has been about 6 months since, and there has been no warp on the top.

[Black wallnut]

In My gun cabinet
each board was no wider than 4" before glue-up, most being 3". I had to re-purchase stock twice while building this project because of cupping. The stock all started as 1"x6", 8", or 12" pine all ripped to 3" or 4" wide depending on part. In my expierence I would hesitate to use softwood any wider than 4" but I have had goods results with red oak as wide as 6" prior to glue up.

Within reason the narrower you rip your stock prior to glue-up the flatter the finished panel, given that your stock all has perfect 90° edges.

[RayintheUK]

In my expierence I would hesitate to use softwood any wider than 4" but I have had goods results with red oak as wide as 6" prior to glue up.

I agree totally with Mark here. Softwood, especially pine, can be a real pain, mostly because it is grown so fast nowadays that the growth rings are wider apart, so cupping is more likely.

Hardwoods are usually much more stable because of their denser grain patterns, so my general rules are 4" maximum on softwood, considerably more with hardwood.

Ray.

[drumpriest]

I've glued up 8-9 inch wide oak boards without issue. I agree with what's been said here though, a less dense hardwood would make be nervous at anywhere near that sort of width. Of course, I've also planed them, and let them sit for a bit to see what the internal stresses are going to do to it. If it's stable through a few weather changes, you're probably going to be ok.

[lcm1947]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. Well, I guess I'll try 3" boards then since I'll either be using pine, poplar or aspen unless I find a hardwood store that sells oak a lot cheaper then Lowe's does. Sounds like oak is what I should use but being my first piece of furniture I'd sure rather practice and learn with a cheaper wood.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. Well, I guess I'll try 3" boards then since I'll either be using pine, poplar or aspen unless I find a hardwood store that sells oak a lot cheaper then Lowe's does. Sounds like oak is what I should use but being my first piece of furniture I'd sure rather practice and learn with a cheaper wood.

As I stated in another thread, you are in Austin and there are some good hardwood dealers in the area. I am sure their red oak will be equal or less than Lowes poplar. 3" boards across a 24" top is going to give you a much different look than 6" boards.

[lcm1947]

Yeah Jeffrey you are the one that got me looking for a hardwood store here in Austin. I found one but they were closed Friday and today so wasn't able to go in and check on the pricing like you suggested. I'll try during this coming week on my lunch break. It'll be great if the pricing is like that and God I hope the stuff is straighter then what's at Lowe's or HD. At those prices you'll at least think it would be straight - NOT! For the very first time I am actually thinking about a planer and jointer but goodness sakes those machines are expensive. Course I'm looking at the $550.00 DeWalt planer and the Ridgid $399.00 jointer.