Cutting laminate flooring

[Ed62]

This stuff seems like it would make a great top for a router table or some other things (glue-ups, etc.). But what's the best way to cut it? I've cut it with a combination carbide blade in a circular saw, but it seems to be tough stuff to cut. Any suggestions? Or is it a bad choice to use it in the first place?

Ed

[JSCOOK]

Get a Freud TK806L blade for cutting and you'll notice a difference ... I'm in the process of installing 1200sqft of the stuff at the moment ...

http://www.freudtools.com/whats_new/rls12.html

I got mine thru Cripe Distrubuting for $32USD + shipping ... cheapest source I could find.

[Ed62]

Thanks for the tip.

Ed

[JSCOOK]

Here's a link to the blade on Cripe's website ... it's atleast 50% cheaper than most places.

http://cripedistributing.com/freud-l...06l-p-890.html

[niki]

Hi Ed

This staff is very high grade plastic laminate (Formica), that’s why you get 15~25 years guaranty and it’s a “blade eater”.

When I made the flooring, I used the TS with 80 tooth blade. Use the blade guard and/or eye protection, some small particles of the dust are flying and they are very sharp.

I used the left over for the router table and other jigs, have a look here
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=24798

niki

[Cheeky]

something I've wondered:

if you cut on the underside (place the grain side down on the miter saw) of the laminate flooring, does that make the cut smoother on the top?

[Ed62]

Thank you for the links.

Niki, I like the looks of the router table. Since I also have a plunge router, your method for raising (or lowering) the bit is really appealing. Thanks for sharing.

Ed

[niki]

Thank you Ed
It’s a poor man “router lift”.

Cheeky
When you cut with CS, put the “good side” (nice side) down.
If you cut on TS, put the “good side” facing up.
That way, you will get a smooth cut on the “good side”, the other side will be a little bit chopped.
Same for Melamine boards.

niki

[scorrpio]

I used a $15 Freud 7.5" 40T CS blade in a TS. Being much thinner than a 10" blade, it cut laminate easily. I recommend a ZCTP, and be sure to wear goggles & a respirator. And use a 1-3 micron filter on the DC.

That $15 Freud I used ate up all the laminate I threw at it and is still alive and well, I use it whenever I need to cut aluminum.

[radhak]

I used a $15 Freud 7.5" 40T CS blade in a TS. Being much thinner than a 10" blade, it cut laminate easily. I recommend a ZCTP, and be sure to wear goggles & a respirator. And use a 1-3 micron filter on the DC.

That $15 Freud I used ate up all the laminate I threw at it and is still alive and well, I use it whenever I need to cut aluminum.

You use a Circular Saw blade in a TS? Um - I didn't know i could do that !

So the arbor size is standard between the CS and the TS?

And why not just buy a regular TS blade - is the CS blade cheaper? Or does the smaller blade size help?

[LinuxRandal]

You use a Circular Saw blade in a TS? Um - I didn't know i could do that !

So the arbor size is standard between the CS and the TS?

And why not just buy a regular TS blade - is the CS blade cheaper? Or does the smaller blade size help?

7.5 and 10" blades use the same diameter arbor (5/8").
The circular saw blade is cheaper then a decent new 10" blade and because it's smaller, equates to more rpm, or cuts per minute in this case. So in answer to the last question, BOTH.

[cwsmith]

"because it's smaller, equates to more rpm, or cuts per minute in this case."

Am I missing something here.... maybe my comprehension is way off. But as I view it, RPM of a motor, or rotating shaft, is whatever it is regardless of the diameter of the blade. (Disregarding drag or resistance of course.) Likewise, given a particular RPM, the speed or distance traveled at the edge of a smaller diameter would be less than that at a larger diameter (that's why race drivers take the inside track on curves). Likewise, if counting X-number of teeth per inch, wouldn't there be more teeth cutting on a larger diameter blade as opposed to a smaller diameter one? Of course you did say, "equates to", so I may not be looking at it correctly.

I do agree with your thoughts on using the smaller blade for cost purposes, especially if the kerf is smaller and you get a satisfactory edge. Also, theoretically, you'd have less strain on the saw motor.

Just a thought (and no offense intended)

CWS

[scorrpio]

RPM is the same, so the teeth travel a bit slower. Yes, arbor diameter is standard 5/8", and blade is only $15 compared to a $40-50 10". The cut is very nice and smooth. (A 40T CS blade has about same teeth as a 60T 10" one) I actually got the cheaper blade expecting to toss it after the laminate - but the beast lasted through it all and came out still good.

[LinuxRandal]

Ok, so rpm isn't the right terminology.

What it amounts to, is a smaller blade, is like having a bigger motor, to a point. It won't do anygood with such a tiny blade that the blade won't rise above the table.

I've heard it described once before, but can't find it. And I seem to be doing a brilliant job of screwing up communication lately

[scorrpio]

Depends on what you want to cut. On BT, a 10" blade rises to about 3.75". Radius of a 7.5" is only 1.25" smaller than on a 10" - which means with a CS blade installed in BT, you still got about 2.5" of cut depth - more than enough for any kind of flooring.

Smaller blade = more power - not really. Saws do not cut like knives, where you grip closer to blade to push into material with more strength. Saw teeth work more like axes, where a longer handle lets you put more power into the swing. The main thing is not the torque, but kinetic energy - and a 10" blade going at full speed will have a lot more of it.